Hands-On With The New Salmon-Dial Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar
The big news from Patek Philippe at this year’s Watches and Wonders came in “denim.” The pale blue dials and denim-look straps certainly drew the most attention. I would argue, however, that another watch deserves a bit more of a spotlight. Join me for a closer look at the Patek Philippe 5236P-010 in-line perpetual calendar with a new salmon dial.
Sure, this is merely a new colorway for an existing watch. However, I wouldn’t be surprised if many of you don’t have the in-line perpetual calendar at the forefront of your mind. Let’s change that today!
The Patek Philippe 5236P from 2021
This watch was first released at Watches and Wonders 2021 as the 5236P-001 with a vertically brushed blue dial. The key focus point here is the “in-line” bit. Patek Philippe is famous for its annual and perpetual calendars, but this one is different. At its heart, it is caliber 31-260 REG QA that debuted in 2011. It has been adapted for the 5236P to display the day, date, and month in a single line above the handstack. And that is no easy feat.
It required a whopping 118 additional parts and three patents to accomplish the in-line display. This setup utilizes four discs to display the weekday, the two digits of the date, and the month. These four discs sit perfectly flush. Only the slight hourglass-shaped gap between the two digits of the date hints at the construction underneath the dial.
The micro-rotor is usually 22K gold, but Patek opted for platinum here to increase its mass. This improves its winding power, which is necessary because the mainspring now has 20% more torque to power the complicated new layout. Can you imagine the caliber designer’s reaction when someone proposed: “Why don’t we put the calendar on a single line?” It takes some doing, to put it mildly.
A new dial for the Patek Philippe 5236P
Okay, all of that was 2021 news. Fast-forward to Watches and Wonders 2024, and Patek introduced a new colorway for the model under reference 5236P-010. The new version features an “opaline rose-gilt dial,” as Patek calls it. You would be forgiven for calling it “salmon.” It is a classical look, and I think it suits the watch perfectly. I feel the original blue dial was always a bit too intricate with its vertical brushing and subtle vignette effect. The watch doesn’t need that much embellishment, as this new Patek Philippe 5236 in opaline rose gilt proves.
As always, the devil is in the details. This dial’s texture is beautiful. The opaline surface looks silky smooth, and it features some subtle different sections. Additionally, the outer minute track is slightly lower and bears tiny concentric ridges. The sub-dial is also sunken and ridged. The dial apertures all feature steps, nicely framing the complications in a sophisticated manner.
I adore that Patek opted for charcoal-gray hands and indices. These are white gold, but their dark appearance beautifully complements the salmon color. Black would have been too harsh. Another plus of the salmon dial is that it allows the moonphase indicator to pop a little more.
Wearing the Patek Philippe 5236P
Handling the new rose-gilt Patek Philippe 5236P, you instantly recognize the quality. It is a relatively simple-looking watch, but the heft of the platinum case and razor-sharp execution leaves no doubt about its level of refinement.
If I am going to be critical (and I should), I would say it could be a tad smaller. As a former vintage dealer, I am used to complicated Pateks with a more modest form factor. This is a relatively large watch at 41.3mm across, 48.6mm from lug to lug, and 11.07mm thick. It wears well, I have to say, but I feel a slightly more compact case would underscore its refinement. I am sure the size results from careful market analysis, and the days of 36mm complicated Pateks are long gone. However, this is certainly a stylistic choice as the caliber inside the 38mm Annual Calendars isn’t any bigger than this caliber 31-260 PS QL.
One thing I particularly enjoy is the view of the caliber inside. It is finished to the familiar Patek Philippe standards, and its finger bridges are simply beautiful. If, by chance, you prefer an all-platinum case back, you can opt for that too. However, you would have to be quite the historical purist to deny yourself this beautiful view.
Color matters
We do not usually do hands-on articles with watches that have merely changed outfits. In this case, though, we feel it was warranted. The Patek Philippe 5236P proves that colors can change the entire nature of a watch. Let me explain.
The original blue 5236P-001 is a very serious-looking watch. It appears monochromatic, exuding a very cerebral, cool vibe. The salmon dial, by contrast, appears much more lively and loose. It feels significantly more frivolous and joyous as a result. Interestingly, it makes the watch a little less formal overall. This may be blasphemous, but I would love — I repeat, love — to put it on an olive-green vintage-style NATO strap.
Granted, this is all subjective. However, I believe the design objectively works better in salmon as well. The charcoal hands and indices against the salmon tone provide more clarity and better legibility. Additionally, the sub-dial at 6 o’clock is optically smaller in this colorway, balancing out the dial better. Lastly, the white and blue displays of the calendar, day/night indicator, and leap-year indicator stand out a bit less. Put together, this effortlessly guides your eyes to what matters more. The watch looks simpler and more legible.
Closing thoughts
To me, this was the standout release from Patek this year. However, I will readily admit that this is entirely based on personal taste, not any actual significance for the brand. Still, if I can shine a spotlight on the classical and grand complications, I will. In a world dominated by gem-set status symbols, a truly traditional complicated Patek is the real breath of fresh air.
I also love how only two colorways offer such variety within one reference. The original blue 5236P-001 is such a different beast from this new salmon 5236P-010. I am sure you will strongly prefer one, as I do. It perfectly demonstrates the worth of color in design.
Speaking of worth, the new Patek Philippe 5236P-010 is priced at CHF 120,000. It is a non-limited addition to the collection.
What do you think of the new opaline rose-gilt 5236P? Let us know in the comments below.
