The IWC Fliegerchronograph 3706 — A Trusty Companion And Neo-Vintage Gem

We are lucky to have reached a phase in the modern industry where the standards of mass production are such that watches can endure all sorts of conditions. The adage “they don’t make them like they used to” hasn’t entirely panned out with watchmaking, at least regarding production quality (design, aesthetics, and luxury culture certainly have changed). But there is indeed something charming about vintage. Thankfully, neo-vintage provides both modern robustness and much of the charm of vintage. Let’s take a look at IWC’s Fliegerchronograph 3706. 

Yes, there is a certain mystique and romanticism to the concept of 34mm watches braving Antarctica or a Certina Chronograph shooting down Mt. Everest. High quality is still there in abundance, even in approachable and affordable segments. Many of the major differences in price points are what we could call “luxury” factors. These can include the amount of work done by hand, parts and case finishing, use of certain precious materials, and so on. And yet there is something magical about the purpose of design that vintage watches often possess. 

The IWC 3706 Fliegerchronograph

The combination of modern manufacturing and the charm of vintage creates an interesting prospect — neo-vintage. Today’s watch sits firmly in that realm. It may come as no surprise to some of you that it is an IWC when remembering my connection to the brand. And the era we will be looking at is the late 1990s and early 2000s. There are many great IWC watches from this era, including one we recently covered here. 

So, let’s get to the watch. What we are talking about today is IWC’s ref. 3706 Fliegerchronograph. The 3706 is from a time when IWC’s tool-watch designs were focused more purely on function. I think it’s fair to say the brand has moved further up the luxury ladder since these watches were produced (from 1994 to 2005). 

A neo-vintage IWC 3706 with flying roots

Why? Well, let’s start with the dial. It is a simple black with hints of gray and stark white numerals. The font is very straightforward; you could say it is almost Teutonic. It is no coincidence that the design harks back to the instrument-style dials of the IWC Mark series that served with Commonwealth airforces (as well as the British Overseas Airways Corporation, or BOAC) after WWII. The blocky hands (and “cut-off” hour hand in particular) are a wonderful signature of IWC’s military heritage. They are the same style used in the Mark 11, Mark XII, and Mark XV pilot’s watches. 

As you can see in the wrist shots above, the 39mm case sits quite well on my 15.9cm (6.25″) wrist. As an owner of the IWC Mark XV, I can attest that there are some clear design similarities between these watch dials and aircraft instrument panels, making for incredibly legible watches. 

An ever-reliable Valjoux 7750 inside

The tri-register layout gives away the movement under the hood. It is a heavily modified version of the venerable Valjoux 7750. IWC re-worked ETA and Valjoux movements in this era, adding or removing components to create more durable, more accurate, and better-finished examples. As you can see in the image above, this also means heat-blued screws and a wonderful finish. 

The modified Valjoux 7750 provides the watch with a day-date complication as well. The use of a modified but widely available movement creates easier serviceability well into the future. This is an advantage to these neo-vintage examples over newer watches with in-house or in-group movements. My example is running within COSC specifications at between one and two seconds fast per day.

Perfect case dimensions for the modern watch world

This watch’s dimensions are another indicator of an era that respected mid-size. This is now back in fashion. Look at the popularity of Tudor’s 39- and 37mm Black Bay dive watches or the recent release of a downsized Longines Legend Diver (from 42mm to 39). The list goes on. This IWC 3706 came out with a 39mm case from the factory, making it 3mm larger than the Mark XII (36mm), its contemporary time-only sibling, and just a single millimeter larger than the Mark XV (38mm).

The 39mm stainless steel case wears its 14.6mm thickness relatively well. This is no hockey puck. The curved sapphire glass takes its shape not because it’s trying to echo vintage iterations but so that, in the case of sudden decompression, it won’t pop off. The case back is matter-of-fact, just like the rest of the key design cues of this watch. A simple “IWC” and “Der Fliegerchronograph” with a serial number provide most of the information you might want. There are no engravings of planes here. 

A versatile and capable timekeeping companion

A 20mm lug spacing allows a vast array of strap options if the excellent brick-style bracelet is not to your taste. Honestly, though, these IWC bracelets are incredibly well made, particularly compared to what Rolex was producing back in the early 2000s. The crown is of the screw-down variety. My example has the later “Probus Scafusia” crown. Earlier models had a small fish symbol, which has become iconic to IWC enthusiasts and collectors. This, alongside the screw-in case back, provides water resistance to 6 bar (or 60 meters).

According to IWC, any of its 60m-water-resistant watches “will have no problem with water sports or snorkeling.” This information does come with a caveat from IWC: “It should also be noted that the water resistance of a watch is not a permanent characteristic. Seals and sealing systems in particular are subject to wear and tear and natural aging. To care for your IWC watch, please read the operating instructions carefully. After use in or under water, your watch should be rinsed with clear, fresh, and lukewarm water and then cleaned and dried. The water resistance should be tested regularly, and at least annually.” It is great to see a watch company be so clear about its water resistance definitions. This helps the consumer make an informed decision. 

Getting the IWC 3706 wet

It just so happens that I recently wanted to go free diving with a friend. Of the watches available to me for this little adventure, I decided upon the trusty IWC 3706. As part of this, of course, I needed to get the watch pressure tested.

A trip to a local watchmaker revealed that the watch passed with flying colors. Encouraged, I decided to take the plunge. Getting this neo-vintage pilot’s watch wet might seem counterintuitive. But watches are there to be worn and adventures, to be had. I am happy to report I could not be happier with the IWC 3706.

The IWC 3706 handles the ocean just fine

Diving in the Pacific Ocean, which is mere meters from my home, makes me consider how truly lucky one can be. To be surrounded by pristine nature and be able to write about taking watches into the wild is a fantastic experience — one that, no doubt, some of you can share.

As part of this process, I am curious to hear whether you’ve taken any less typical watches into the ocean or your favorite pool or lake. It is a fun experience.

Final thoughts

As you can probably tell, I love the neo-vintage IWC 3706 Fliegerchronograph. It provides a no-nonsense watch design that is also incredibly charming. The case size is just about perfect, and to me, it represents some of the greatest aspects of IWC tool-watch design — something over-engineered but subtle in its execution.

Today, IWC still makes incredible watches, and we are lucky to have so many choices. But there is something magical about these older timepieces. If you can find one that has that charm and can also handle an adventure or two, then all the more power to you. But what do you think, Fratelli? Let me know some of your favorite neo-vintage watches in the comments or if you want me to look into a specific neo-vintage watch. You’re also welcome to message me privately on Instagram.