Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2024

Including first impressions, highlights, and trends of the show

April 18, 2024

comments 22

Welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. In this special long-form episode, Nacho, RJ, and Morgan discuss Watches and Wonders 2024. There’s much to unpack from this year’s fair, so prepare for an extended episode. The trio tackles topics including the general atmosphere of the fair, noticeable trends from brands and the industry overall, and many of the show’s notable releases. This year’s show was slightly slower than what we’ve seen in the past. Nevertheless, there were no fewer releases from the 54 participating brands. Do you want an idea of what it was like to walk the halls and touch (and feel) the watches? If so, tune in to this episode of Fratello Talks! Before we jump into all that, though, let’s see what the guys have on their wrists today.

Wrist check

We start with RJ, who happens to be wearing one of the fair’s most talked-about watches despite it having come out several weeks before. It’s the new white-dial Omega Speedmaster Professional. On loan from Omega, this latest Speedmaster release stopped people in their tracks at Palexpo since most had not seen it in the metal yet. If you’re wondering whether RJ will own one someday, let’s just say it’s not a matter of “if” but “when.”

Morgan has gone back to his Pelagos FXD after a week of travel with just his Rolex Explorer. Lately, he has been dressing the FXD down with a CNS tan-colored NATO strap with the extra keeper chopped off. It contrasts nicely with the blue dial and shows the versatility of one of Tudor’s most rugged divers.

Speaking of the FXD, today, Nacho is wearing his very own! Having recently had a chance to buy one in an offer too good to pass up, he decided to finally go for the Pelagos FXD “USN.” He had eyes on it since it was released in September last year. He was among the first to see the watch and even took it diving in the green, life-filled waters of Florida’s Gulf Coast. You can rest assured that this one will be a mainstay on his wrist over the coming weeks (and possibly even months). This was also his watch of choice for Watches and Wonders 2024.

Watches and Wonders 2024

It’s one of the most anticipated events in the yearly watch industry calendar. Journalists, retailers, brand reps, influences, and everyone else in between travel to Geneva for a week of watches (and wonders). No show is the same as its predecessor. This is a simple truth that applies due to the difference in watches released as well as the ever-changing state of the industry. This year, the infamous post-pandemic slump was palpable. Both from the overall mood and the brand’s releases, feelings were mixed at best.

However, there were still plenty of great releases from some of the industry’s biggest brands.

For a full rundown of the show and some of its best releases, tune in to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks! As always, leave your thoughts in the comments below, and tune in next week for a new episode.

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Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2024

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SH
shammad10 says:

Apr 18, 2024 at 09:57

Says it all about the state of Panerai at the moment and their relevance. Brands from Rolex to Alpina was discussed but not a word about Panerai’s tired and repetitive novelties

Reply
MB
MarkBu says:

Apr 18, 2024 at 10:55

I’ve commented enough about W&W. I’m just glad that we’ve got twelve months until the next one.

It’s a funny thing about the FXD; I was only mildly interested when it first came out but now I think it’s probably my favorite Tudor. Not the most versatile, but I’ve got other watches to wear with long sleeves. Maybe one day.

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1. SC
  Tam O’ Banter says:
  
  Apr 19, 2024 at 06:27
  
  It was too…inelegant for me when I tried it on. I loved the idea of the solid bar but in practice with the G10 strap it was bulky and uncomfortable. Might go back to try the 39 though
  
  Reply
  1. MB
    MarkBu says:
    
    Apr 19, 2024 at 10:31
    
    Useful feedback. As it is, my Certina Sea Turtle Conservancy almost fills the slot and I’m happy with that one.
    
    Reply
2. MartinM says:
  
  Apr 20, 2024 at 14:31
  
  I had the FXD for a short while. I love the concept. But … The OG velcro was bulky and not as elegant as pictures may show, so I tried single pass NATOs and one from Erika’s. Looked much better. The case is a bigger issue. Looks sleek and low profile, yes, but it wears bigger and snags cuffs worse than a Deepsea, in my experience.
  
  Reply
  1. MB
    MarkBu says:
    
    Apr 21, 2024 at 01:28
    
    I wouldn’t wear a diver on a pass-under strap with cuffs bur I see your point.
    
    Reply
Serious_Panther says:

Apr 18, 2024 at 11:54

I make sure to never miss an episode of Fratello talks. This one puts a nice end to this year’s Watches and Wonders. I really wondered who a lot of these watches are for, like you didn’t fail to point out. Great coverage of the event, vielen Dank!

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Tristan says:

Apr 18, 2024 at 15:02

On the DeepSea, RJ said somthing like that people don’t dive with them anyway – presumably gold or not. Can I say that’s not true. I for one (recreational) dive and jet-ski with my Sub or DeepSea. I’m wearing those watches anyway and they are tough enough to take a beating so why not wear them underwater if you like watersports? The idea of babying them seems a bit silly.

Would I dive with the gold one? Probably not my first choice if the steel was also at hand. But if it was all I had then sure.

Proabably a 2024/25 model only.

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1. Robert-Jan says:
  
  Apr 18, 2024 at 18:41
  
  I applaud you for doing so, but I am afraid you are in the minority here 🙂
  
  Reply
akinaspeedstars says:

Apr 18, 2024 at 17:12

The dial on the platinum 1908 is created by a traditional hand-operated rose-engine, as has been reported by reliable sources like SJX. There is no such thing as machine-operated guilloche.
So disappointing to see a respectable publication actively spread disinformation on behalf of their sponsors. I realize there is even less reason to buy a Breguet now, but will lying about the 1908 boost the dismal Breguet sales?

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1. Robert-Jan says:
  
  Apr 18, 2024 at 18:35
  
  Rolex confirmed to us it is not done by hand, period.
  
  Reply
2. watermelon says:
  
  Apr 18, 2024 at 18:52
  
  RJ, did Rolex tell you the enamel dial of the puzzle DD is also done by machine? What about the gem-setting on so many models, also by machine right? ?
  
  Sometimes it’s better to admit you were wrong or people will stop believing anything you say. Just my two cents.
  
  Reply
  1. Robert-Jan says:
    
    Apr 18, 2024 at 18:58
    
    So wait, you believe SJX but not Rolex? Weird. I have asked them if this was done by hand, like Breguet. They said it’s not (but still by engraving, just not by hand) as they said, and I quote, “we are producing on a different scale.” Do whatever you want with it, but this has been communicated by Rolex to us.
    
    Reply
    1. Kitab_Paul_Shah says:
      
      Apr 18, 2024 at 22:41
      
      But surely the CNC G code was programed by hand?? ?
      
      I think the idea of hand made is almost as poorly defined as an in house movement. Hand made on a rose engine? Surely that’s tool made? Is it hand finished if you use a dremel?
      
      Is judge on the end result, rather than the he method. Unless you are un-ironically buying the story.
      
      Reply
      1. Robert-Jan says:
        
        Apr 18, 2024 at 23:21
        
        It probably was. So, to answer your question: hand made, in this case, means that the rose engine is turned by (human) hands. Rolex told me that the technique and process for the 1908 is similar to that, but that this equipment is not operated by hand. It would be too (human) resource heavy for the numbers they do.
        
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        MS says:
        
        Apr 18, 2024 at 23:52
        
        Wei Koh of Revolution also said this dial was traditional guillochage. Wonder why Rolex representatives told him one thing and you something else. This is not a high-volume piece, will have small production numbers like the gem watches, Breguet will make a lot more guilloche dials than Rolex will make platinum 1908s.
        
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        Robert-Jan says:
        
        Apr 19, 2024 at 00:01
        
        No idea. I specifically asked this question to a very knowledgable person at Rolex, and this was his answer. It is in the end traditional guillochage, meaning it is indeed engraved, but the person at Rolex was very eminent that the guillochage machine was not turned by hand like at Breguet (his specific example). I can only echo what was told to me. I will ask again, just to clarify.
        
        Reply
        
        SC
        Tam O' Banter says:
        
        Apr 19, 2024 at 06:43
        
        As far as I am aware, very little is done by hand at Rolex these days. In fact, they seem to be employing almost exactly the same method of production as Swatch System 51 watches.
        I mean it stands to reason. 1,000,000 divided by 365 is 2,739 or 114 complete watches per day. Are they a 24 hour operation?
        Exactly how many people would they need to employ to make them by hand? How long does it take to manually coil and fit both a mainspring and hairspring? Really properly? Half an hour? Just for that?
        
        Reply
        
        SC
        Tam O' Banter says:
        
        Apr 19, 2024 at 08:07
        
        Sorry. 114 watches per hour, if they are a 24hr operation.
        
        Reply
        
        MartinM says:
        
        Apr 20, 2024 at 14:45
        
        Light have traveled about 10.000.000 kilometers for every Rolex made. Sounds slower that way ?
        
        Reply
        
        GD
        1Gav1 says:
        
        Apr 19, 2024 at 08:16
        
        The article I read on Revolution that claimed it was a hand-turned guilloché dial also stated that the dial was produced externally. If that is the truth (God knows) then it’s probably being made by Metalem, who do this type of thing in high volumes, and have made non-guilloché dials for Rolex in the past.
        
        Not like any of this matters, though. Journe uses the cheapest method – stamping – on his Chronometre Souverain models and I don’t think anyone getting the call for one of those is going to have a nanosecond of concern about that.
        
        Reply
jmvinagre says:

Apr 19, 2024 at 16:37

Following up on what you were discussing regarding a focus on haute horlogerie by JLC, also seen with other brands and associated with the use of precious metals aplenty and jaw dropping price tags, I think it’s worth mentioning that the releases seen at W&W 2024 were planned 2-3 years back, at the height of the market. Most brands were short-sighted to a market downturn, an ever-present reality in current times. It won’t be a deadly blow, but it will hurt. Let’s wait and see the impact in future editions of W&W.

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