Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Released Audemars Piguet Watches — More Than Just Royal Oaks

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we look at some of the best Audemars Piguet releases of 2024. With a new CEO Ilaria Resta now leading the brand, it will be interesting to see what the future has in store. In her first six months on the job, we have seen quite a few interesting AP releases. As we all know, they still have François-Henry Bennahmias’s signature on them as developing different models often takes years. Nevertheless, it is the start of a new era at Audemars Piguet, and we decided to look at the first timepieces of that new era.

After working for Audemars Piguet for 29 years, François-Henry Bennahmias said goodbye at the end of 2023. Ilaria Resta formally took over on January 1st, 2024. In reality, she had been on board since the summer of 2023 for a transitional period before Bennahmias handed her the ropes. Though this year’s interesting releases were developed when he was still at the helm, hopefully, we will find out what Resta has planned for the brand soon enough. For now, let’s look at five standout releases unveiled since this January.

Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding

It is no secret that the Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet has slowly grown on some of us here at Fratello. Lex and I became fans of the series after Audemars Piguet decided to redesign the dials and replace the much-debated numerals with regular indices. Combining both has given the Code 11.59 much-needed refinement and an extra layer of appeal. Lex reviewed the latest 38mm and 41mm additions to the lineup. Both models combine an 18K pink gold case with a “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial. As Lex explained, this stamped dial with a ripple pattern was designed by Yann von Kaenel, an independent engine-turning specialist.

The dials have a great sense of depth and refinement. Some people don’t like the fact that they’re not real guilloché dials, but if you have seen them up close, you know they are super nice. They don pink gold applied indices and matching hands filled with Super-LumiNova. Another stunning feature is the case construction of the Code 11.59. Seeing the side profile is nothing short of impressive.

When it comes to picking a favorite, Lex and I prefer the 41mm version for multiple reasons. First off, the case fits both our wrists better. It measures 41mm wide, 50mm long, and 10.7mm thick, and when combined with the blue rubber-coated strap, it is an absolute joy to wear. Another reason is that the dark blue base dial is combined with a gray inner bezel for the 60-minute scale. The subtle color difference creates a wonderful effect that makes the face of the watch more lively. As Lex aptly put it, “It’s a classic pairing that just works.”

The in-house caliber 4302

Inside the case of the 41mm version, you will find the 257-part automatic caliber 4302. The in-house movement operates at 28,800vph and offers 70 hours of power reserve. The visually striking movement displays the hours, minutes, central seconds, and date and completes this modern-day interpretation of a dress watch that can be yours for €35,600.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked

Our next pick is the brilliant white gold Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked that Lex reviewed recently. As he explained, open-worked versions of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” are anything but new. I fully agree that the pink and yellow gold versions are impressive. Still, the white gold version balances the impact of the open-worked movement perfectly with the understated brilliance of white gold. If you see the pink and yellow gold versions, the precious metal takes center stage, and only after you zoom in does the stunning movement grab your attention. In white gold, this watch has a visual balance that works.

But it’s not just a change in materials that makes this a stunner. Audemars Piguet also optimized the overall presence by using dark gray parts for the movement and a black rehaut. This creates a layered look that prevents the overall image from becoming too busy. It appears focused and aesthetically wonderful. That’s not to say that there isn’t a lot going on. After all, it’s still an open-worked movement. The 211-part caliber 7124 was developed alongside AP’s caliber 7121, which beats inside the regular version of the Royal Oak “Jumbo.” The 4Hz movement has a 57-hour power reserve and displays hours and minutes.

A match made in heaven

If you think the movement looks impressive from a relative distance, wait till you get up close. The 324 hand-polished angles inside it give it a simply stunning presence. Combined with the ever-impressive Royal Oak “Jumbo” design, it’s a match made in heaven. The industrial design traits of the Royal Oak make it the perfect canvas for an open-worked movement.

But let’s not forget that with a 39mm diameter, 48.6mm length, and 8.1mm thickness, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” is also an absolute joy to wear. The finishing of the case and bracelet make the new white gold version of Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked a special piece and one of this year’s best so far. At US$124,100, it is certainly a watch for the happy few. But what a stunning watch it is!

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer Limited Edition

The next Royal Oak that thoroughly impressed us is the collaboration that Audemars Piguet created with John Mayer. While the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is far from new, this iteration is truly special. It all begins and ends with that stunning blue dial. Daan explained that the Crystal Sky blue dial is created by applying a PVD coating to glass, which is then stamped. The world-famous musician and watch collector also added suggestions to enhance the uniformity of the dial design. It’s a series of small but clever changes, like making the number 31 on the date sub-dial smaller instead of giving it a contrasting color. Additionally, the central hand that indicates the weeks on the rehaut of the dial is executed in light blue rather than white gold, so it blends in better rather than standing out.

The canvas for this 200-piece limited edition is the white gold version of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, which measures 41mm wide and 9.5mm thick. Once again, white gold provides a distinguished presence that keeps the watch from being flashy while offering the luxury of precious metal. Inside the white gold case, you will find the self-winding caliber 5134.

It consists of 374 parts, operates at 19,800vph, offers 40 hours of power reserve, and is visible through the sapphire window of the case back. However, the main visual attraction of this watch is on the front. Combining that special dial texture with the balanced design of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar made for a stunning timepiece that went for sale for CHF 240,000 ex. VAT.

Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 Selfwinding

Our next pick came out not too long ago and completely caught us off guard. Lex got an exclusive preview at Audemars Piguet HQ and returned excited after trying the [RE]Master02 Selfwinding. The watch is anything but traditional in its shape and presence. It’s more like a piece of architecture made for the wrist. As Lex explained, the [RE]Master02 Selfwinding was inspired by Audemars Piguet’s Model 5159BA from 1960, which is on display at the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet.

The odd asymmetrical case shape with its sharp angles will be an acquired taste for most people. Just one glance was enough to win me over completely, though. The quirky case design, oddly shaped sapphire crystal, and stunning dial make it an instant winner.

The 41 × 9.7mm octagonal case is made from 18K sand gold, a material that Audemars Piguet introduced recently. What I love about sand gold is that it has an understated appearance while still feeling super luxurious. The hue of sand gold is between white and pink gold, and it gives the brushed case a unique look. This case is combined with a beautiful “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50″ dial.

It’s a seemingly simple dial, but look closer, and you will discover that the shape, design, and finish are full of tremendous details that make it a joy to see. Inside the case, you will find AP’s hour-and-minute-only caliber A7129, which also powers the Royal Oak “Jumbo.” It is a nice link to the brand’s icon, but I love that AP took a step away from the obvious and into its archives to surprise us with this brilliant €47,400 [RE]Master02 Selfwinding.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

Our last pick is a variation of another model that is far from new for the brand. However, the introduction of a different dial makes this a standout release. I make no secret of the fact that I’m not a huge fan of tourbillons. While I greatly respect the technical wonder of a tourbillon, it’s also an element that usually takes center stage and breaks up the dial design in undesirable ways. But if a tourbillon is combined with a dial like this, I am all here for it. This new pink gold Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon leaves the traditional Tapisserie dial behind and replaces it with an amazing sandblasted gray and ivory dial.

This exercise in style proves the transformative powers that a dial can have. I simply love the combination of the textured gray inner dial and the ivory ring that holds the minute track. The rose gold hour markers sit on top of that to create an intricate and layered visage that feels new compared to the Royal Oak’s usual Tapisserie dials. The colors also go well with the pink gold case and bracelet, giving the watch a stunning look.

Inside the case, AP uses its caliber 2950. This tourbillon movement displays hours and minutes, operates at 21,600vph, and offers 65 hours of power reserve. I wouldn’t mind seeing the dial of this watch in a regular Royal Oak “Jumbo.” I’m sure it would look incredible. For now, though, we have to “make do” with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon, which can be yours for CHF 180,600 ex. VAT.

Final thoughts on the best recent Audemars Piguet releases

Compiling this list was an absolute joy. Audemars Piguet shows that many great executions of its classic Royal Oak impress us even five decades after its introduction. On top of that, it’s also great to see that the brand is further expanding the Code 11.59 range with models that step away from the initial design that so many disliked. Lastly, the [RE]Master02 Selfwinding is the cherry on top. This unexpected release shows that there’s so much more to the brand than the Royal Oak. We hope to see more surprise releases based on the extensive archive.

Of course, Audemars Piguet is a brand for the happy few, as the prices of these five watches indicate. But that doesn’t take anything away from the impact of AP’s technical brilliance, meticulous craftsmanship, and characteristic designs. They perfectly show why Audemars Piguet is one of the leading brands in the industry. But we would love to pass the question on to you now. What are your thoughts on Audemars Piguet? Let us know in the comments section, and we’ll see you next week for another Top 5 list!