Daniel Craig white-dial Speedmaster 2024

RJ’s 2024 New Year’s Watch Resolutions — Making Room For More Joy

Stop feeding the safe deposit box, and start feeding the wrist

January 08, 2024

comments 36

I didn’t buy a single Speedmaster for the second consecutive year, which feels wrong. However, my hopes are high for 2024, though, after Omega showed us that white-dial Speedmaster on Daniel Craig’s wrist.

Reviewing my watch resolutions from 2023

That said, let’s quickly look back at my watch resolutions of last year (you can find the article here). I had two watches in my mind to purchase in 2023, and although I bought more than two, I only ended up with one from my previous watch resolutions, the Breguet Tradition ref. 7027. Among others, I also added the Straum Jan Mayen Fratello edition with the red dial, our Aquastar Deepstar II collaboration with the pink dial, and an Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph with an El Primero movement. The Breguet was the only purchase that was not spontaneous, though. I spent quite some time searching for the right one for me. It also became the watch that I wore the most out of my recent purchases.

Rolex Milgauss. Image: Amsterdam Watch Company.

The other watch that I included in my article last year was the Rolex Milgauss. And believe me, I tried it (several times) again after that article was published. In the end, though, I concluded that it was not for me after all. No harm done, though. Rolex released a new watch in 2023 that is high on my list now. Now that we got this out of our way, let’s look at 2024.

Actor Daniel Craig — Image: Omega

Watch resolutions for 2024

Not knowing what 2024 will have in store for me, my bet is on the white-dial Speedmaster that I mentioned in this article. Once that one comes out, my order will be in. I assume this watch will have a retail price somewhere between €7,500 and €9,000, probably closer to the latter as it looks like it has a sapphire crystal in the images with Daniel Craig.

Rolex GMT-Master II

Looking at today’s retail prices, I have found myself of two minds about buying new watches. I would love to add last year’s Rolex GMT-Master II in gold or gold and steel, but with the ever-increasing prices, it’s starting to get a bit nonsensical compared to what’s out there in the pre-owned market. Besides moving towards the pre-owned market, I also think that I should let some watches go before I purchase anything else. I have too many watches that seldom see daylight, and I believe that they deserve a better life than that.

Breguet Classique 5157

There are several watches that I have been professionally eyeballing in the last months and, in some cases, years. I also mentioned one of them last year, and I tried it again about two months ago. It’s the Breguet Classique 5157. This, to me, is one of the best dress watches out there. The yellow gold model has been discontinued but can be found pre-owned. But I am unsure if I should add another yellow or rose gold dress watch to my collection. Perhaps white gold would also be nice for a change. You certainly have some more strap options with this white metal. This 38mm watch also fits the trend towards smaller watches again. And according to watch designer Emmanuel Gueit, with whom I briefly discussed this topic, it will stay this way for the next five to 10 years.

(Neo-)Vintage Rolex GMT-Master II

Another watch to add might be a Rolex GMT-Master II, after all. I can’t get the new model out of my mind, but if that’s not feasible in 2024, I am happy to look at some pre-owned bicolor GMT-Master (II) models with a five-digit reference number. I’d prefer one with a brown dial and a gold and brown bezel on a Jubilee bracelet. I have owned several GMT-Master watches but never in gold or two-tone, so I think it’s time for one of those. It’s a handsome watch that reminds me of the 1980s and ’90s and easily beats some more modern GMT watches in the same price range.

RJ's 2024 watch resolutions Royal Oak Offshore

Emmanuelle Guiet’s Royal Oak Offshore (no. 039), which was auctioned through Phillips

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

I am staying with sports watches for the next pick. Since my colleague Timo purchased his Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore last year, I have been browsing them regularly. I prefer a blue-dial ref. 25721 — aka “The Beast” — but could also settle for a variation like the Offshore Themes Safari. The thing is, I love the Royal Oak bracelets so much that I’d prefer to get one of those. The diameter of the Royal Oak Offshore chronograph I am looking at is 42mm, which I can easily handle. And despite the trend for smaller watches, the Offshore needs to be large as it was designed and supposed to be that way.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

Lastly, there’s another watch that I’ve been keeping an eye on for a long time (and wishing I had pulled the trigger on it earlier). It’s the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1. Ever since I got into watches in the 1990s, but also after several visits to the A. Lange & Söhne manufacture in Glashütte over the years, the Lange 1 has remained high on my list. Its design speaks to me, and not many watch brands get away with their 1990s designs in the 2020s. The level of craftsmanship visible in Lange’s movements is also impressive, especially the hand-engraved balance bridge. These calibers are a joy to observe through the sapphire case back, while the dial side is borderline boring but incredibly timeless. There’s little to criticize about A. Lange & Söhne watches, and I firmly believe that I will never get tired of it when owning one.

For such a purchase, I need to free up some funds and make some room in my collection. I am not sure if I am willing to do so, but the older I get, the more I realize that I can’t wear all of my watches all the time anyway.

Wrist time is crucial

Going forward, the most important thing to me is wearing my watches. The box filled with watches that never get any time on the wrist is significant, and I don’t want to feed that monster anymore. So when I purchase a watch in 2024, it shall receive proper wrist time, as my Breguet 7027 does. That, to me, is also the problem when looking at vintage watches. I have added quite a few over the years, but they only get limited time on the wrist. I’m not always comfortable wearing a vintage watch as I often need to be aware (or “unagi,” as Ross Geller would say) when wearing it daily. Not that I’m careless, but they’re usually more fragile than modern watches, and service or repair can be lengthy and expensive. I’ll try to stay clear of such watches in 2024, focusing on pieces that I will wear and enjoy thoroughly.

What do you think of my watch resolutions for 2024? Do you have any of your own? If you’d like to share them, feel free to do so in the comments section below.

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RJ’s 2024 New Year’s Watch Resolutions — Making Room For More Joy

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Hubertje says:

Jan 08, 2024 at 07:08

I wear my vintage watches daily, as did their previous owners, and haven’t found them to be any less sturdy than my more recent ones?
If anything, they’ve proven to be sturdy just by surviving more than 50 years.

Reply
1. Robert-Jan says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 08:47
  
  I am too cautious when wearing vintage watches. So it’s just not relaxed or careless when wearing one. I don’t want to damage a vintage watch. For starters because I feel it’s a pity when they get damaged, and second, as mentioned, the repairing process can be very lengthy and expensive. Parts are not always widely available (or at all), making it a bit of a frustrating process at times. I have experienced several times now in the past two decades. Not only exterior parts are sometimes tough to replace, but also movement parts, even from some of the big brands. Regarding being fragile, this has to do with the plexi crystals, not being water resistance (anymore), and the build quality of certain vintage watches is not the same as others. A vintage Rolex is fine, but when I hold the vintage JLC from my mom, it gives me shivers 😉
  
  Reply
2. DM
  TacoPants says:
  
  Jan 10, 2024 at 15:31
  
  I agree! And for me, being able to wear a vintage watch daily it all starts with choosing the right example of a reference.
  
  My eye is always drawn to perfect examples, real survivors that look brilliant in photos and in my fantasies. But OWNING those is not so great. They’re too good to wear as intended. Nowadays I fight that instinct and try to select examples that look nicely “worn in.” And that relieves the stress of wearing, and allows me to simply experience the watch and bond with it. Own the watch, never let it own you!
  
  Reply
Tincenv says:

Jan 08, 2024 at 09:01

That Breguet Tradition is hard to beat. Why not get that 5157 as well? The Lange 1 is a beaut, but those prices are silly. The same watch used to be half of what it is today, and nothing changed about the watch. Rolex GMT is nice as well, just be careful where you go with that. It’s a great travel companion, but are you at ease bringing it on your trips?

Reply
1. Robert-Jan says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 14:22
  
  Thanks for your comment. I am not too worried about where to wear the watch, you just need to be mindful. Not a problem with the Breguet indeed.
  
  Reply
Moonwatcher says:

Jan 08, 2024 at 09:36

All the best for 2024 for you, your family, and the team at Fratello, and thank you for sharing your passion with us. As a fortunate owner of the GRNR 126713, which i admittedly could buy at retail before the price increase, i can confim that it makes me smile every time i close its folding clasp. I also don’t care where i go with it, it may not be discreet in itself, my attitude is.

Reply
1. Robert-Jan says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 14:23
  
  Thanks @Moonwatcher
  
  The GRNR126713 is the first Rolex since the Everose & steel GMT from 2018 which made me want one!
  
  Reply
DG
GoldenYears says:

Jan 08, 2024 at 10:10

I’m with you, RJ, on the five digit Rolex GMT Master II watches but am not keen on the bicolor versions.

Reply
1. Moonwatcher says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 10:37
  
  I express the same opinion as Mr. Goldenyears here, as much as i love my GRNR TT, my preferred 5 digit reference is the 16710.
  
  Reply
2. Robert-Jan says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 14:28
  
  Thanks @GoldenYears,
  
  I have had the 16710 and am ready to add a bit of gold to it. 😉
  
  Reply
MB
MarkBu says:

Jan 08, 2024 at 10:50

As RJ states, wrist time is crucial so, given I’m in no great hurry to move any of mine on, it’s going to be a quiet year in terms of acquisitions. I’ve a list of ‘possibles’ out of which one is the most likely but I’m in no hurry.

Reply
1. Robert-Jan says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 14:30
  
  That’s the thing! I am super happy with the things I have or have had, and no hurry for now. I rather take the time to make a proper decision.
  
  Reply
Giorgio Lucce says:

Jan 08, 2024 at 10:50

Nice article. Thank you. I am starting a collection of luxury watches and I now have four beautiful pieces. I am debating how many more timepieces I should buy. I am a huge record/vinyl collector and book collector. One thing I learned about collecting is there is a point where the returns are diminishing when the collection grows so much and you cannot really enjoy the individual pieces. This is true for watches too I think so I am planning to cap my collection at nine or ten watches and one thing I learned is to be patient and not buy all the watches at the same time. My tastes and knowledge are evolving. I don’t understand the point of owning so many watches that they are always in storage in your dresser. To me it means you cannot enjoy the individual watches that matter most to you. At any right, I love your selections for 2024. They match a few of mine.

Reply
1. Robert-Jan says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 14:47
  
  I am not sure if it works like that, using a cap. Once you’re down the rabbit hole, it can go very quickly. Even though I am not wearing all of my watches, I do enjoy having them and take them out once in a while for a bit of wear/enjoyment.
  
  Reply
HC
Oseberg says:

Jan 08, 2024 at 12:14

My key watch resolution for 2024 is : not buying any watch

Two reasons for that :

1) I honestly have all the watches I want, ranging from the shitty but full of charm YEMA RJOQ56 from the 90’s, to a Grand Seiko SBGN003 and a Tudor BlackBay 58, with Sinn 5556 A and Formex Essence 39 filling the middle ground. And a custom engraved Semper and Adhuc Instantanée Originale to boot.
2) I have picked up a new hobby : Archery. Much cheaper than watches (a very good arrow costs the same a mid range NATO strap, and € 2000 will get you a high end fully equipped recurve bow and you don’t need 6 or 7 of them), ultra geeky too but you get to meet more like minded people more frequently than in watch circles

Reply
1. Enuona says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 13:30
  
  I kept an archery club alive (revitalisation) some years back and bought good compound bows for a couple of kids. Great fun, good sport and very dangerous weapons. I do believe you would be in for a surprise (if not already there), when starting digging into “perfect parts” though. The kids I dealt with assembled their own arrows. I’m a fan of PRUDENT bowhunting by highly skilled hunters.
  
  Meanwhile, have fun with this dig into what ancient archery might have looked like on this channel:
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liHlCRpS70k
  
  No iframe or embed allowed.
  
  Reply
2. Robert-Jan says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 14:53
  
  Thanks for your comment @oseberg
  
  That’s one tough resolution!! As for the archery, I can’t use another hobby, to be honest. My attic is packed with comic books, I acquired a lot of fountain pens, and on Saturday mornings I try to play a few holes at the local golf course.
  
  Reply
3. MoonwatchUniverse says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 15:13
  
  Indeed, the watches I have are still running after 30 years, bought my last Speedmaster in 1997, now that’s sustainability. Moreover, most people I know also bought their Speedmaster decades ago priced at about 1K while nowadays we see prices going 10K. It has become an expensive “hobby” …
  
  Reply
4. SC
  AnPucaGlas says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 22:19
  
  1) Very nice collection. I am possibly going to buy the new RZE Resolute Pro as a cheaper alternative to the Sinn 556.
  2) I’m also trying to find an alternative hobby to replace watches. I’d love to get into archery, but will focus on bouldering for a bit before looking into it (even cheaper and convenient for city living).
  
  Reply
JB says:

Jan 08, 2024 at 16:01

Watch resolution? If it’s a topic I suppose mine has started in earnest and is revealing itself to be rather interesting. And it won’t cost me a dime. This is the year I’m walking my son thru my entire collection. It’s very important to me that he gets the background and story of each piece. Why I have it, where when I purchased it. Historical significance, movement, service histories of interest and parts retained from such that accompany the watch history. Photos of our events together with watches worn he’s never even seen yet because he was too young to notice. The watches won’t mean much without the stories other than a dollar value which has nothing to do with the soul of the watch in my life. We’ve started and it’s going to be a wonderful journey with him one watch at a time. And of course I also want him to know what’s in the box as it will relate to his own watch box. He just got arrived there sooner than I expected.

Reply
DC
PdxOm4me says:

Jan 08, 2024 at 16:29

In every forum or blog about about 2024, as well as in private conversations, the theme is cutting back. I am no different. But if 2024 is the year that we all intend on downsizing our collections, who are we selling to if no one is buying?

There is a widespread sentiment that we have too many watches. Even though people say they don’t need to sell, everyone wants to sell.

What does that say about the future of watch collecting, at least for the near term? If we all follow through with our resolutions, it means falling prices and falling demand.

Reply
1. Robert-Jan says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 17:09
  
  I believe that people are just a bit more careful spending money, especially on stuff they don’t need. So what better way to fund a bit of extra money for a new purchase by selling some of the watches you don’t wear? As long as it is one in, one out, at least we keep the economy going 😉
  
  Reply
CL
Cavscout123 says:

Jan 08, 2024 at 17:21

As others have said, the sentiment for 2024 seems to be cutting back. The watch world went through an orgy during the pandemic years, and that orgy has left me, at least, feeling guilty about the amount of time and money I spent on watches. As I stated earlier, I started selling off my collection months ago and didn’t struggle to sell any then. Now, though, the few watches I have left are not moving, so it seems that others are not only saying they will cut back but actually are. Which is good for them, even if it means I can’t sell the watches I do not wear. Personally, I think it is great that people want to buy less and use what they have. What is the point of having so many things you can’t use? I will take the hit of being unable to sell my watches any day if it means others are making more informed and responsible decisions with their capital. In the US, at least, our consumer debt level has exceeded 17 trillion dollars. A cutback in spending and accumulating will be good, especially as those credit defaults start to rise.

I guess this is bad news for the watch companies, but I do not feel inclined to have much compassion for their plight. Hopefully, it will get a few of them off their high horses regarding pricing (IWC, for example). And there is a side benefit to reduced demand: it will slow down the manufacturing levels, which is good news for using natural resources (I know the arguments for the impact this will have on employment. No need to bring them up.). Also, it will mean that the watches already in circulation get worn, are used, repaired, and put back into service—good news for some of those independent watchmakers.

Watches are lovely little tools, but there is a limit to how many I need and what the cost of having a pile of them is beyond the initial purchase price. Maybe many of us will finally reach our one to three-watch collection and call it good. Time will tell.

Reply
1. Hubertje says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 18:40
  
  Well, if everyone’s selling, I might start buying.
  Although the real low is yet to come, me thinks.
  
  Reply
2. Chaz_H says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 19:01
  
  Very well said, wise words (for an army guy) and especially your second paragraph!
  I’m in the same boat as you but rather than trying to sell watches I no longer wear, I’ve been feeding the habit of an up and coming “WIS” nephew by giving him a piece here and there, once in a while (trying to be careful to not spoil the kid).
  
  I find myself wearing the Seiko “Safarnie” SNJ031 pretty much 24/7 these days despite all the fancy pants mechanicals sitting in the safe that I’ve acquired over the years.
  
  Reply
3. Enuona says:
  
  Jan 08, 2024 at 21:22
  
  Being content is somewhat underrated. Perhaps more should have a go at it?
  
  Reply
Pelandrone says:

Jan 08, 2024 at 19:32

One of the forumites once presented the concept of “exit watch” and explained it to me as the last (ever) watch he would buy once he felt he’s been there done that and interest was waning. Something to that effect.

A few months after I got my 42mm BR03-92 I consider it my exit watch.
I love the design/looks, the feel, the legibility, I am completely content with the sw300 powerplant.

I totally lost interest in serching for the next one to add to the collection.
What I considered my grail watches (8Hz Chopard AE and 41 APRO) are of no interest to me anymore.

I will keep my current small collection for now.
If I sell something it will be Omega first, then I will more or less just stick to SD, quartz and SW300.

Active participation is over, I moved to the next phase in my watch interest – passive observer.

Generally, no more collections for me, enough. Too much stuff.

Just have to work through my large collection of unread books, that’s my current project in progress.

Reply
1. MB
  MarkBu says:
  
  Jan 09, 2024 at 10:47
  
  A good place to be. I largely feel the same.
  
  Reply
2. Enuona says:
  
  Jan 09, 2024 at 20:38
  
  Not a collector and has no itch to scratch, but if I get some urge it would probably be a Traska Commuter trigging a search for the best alternative to that. Haute microbrandologie ?
  
  Books are great, I prefer the old classics and have used Gutenberg extensively in periods. A good many translations are “less than optimal” to be very polite, thus getting the english translations and originals through Gutenberg is an enabler.
  
  Reply
  1. Pelandrone says:
    
    Jan 09, 2024 at 21:54
    
    I have a sizable collection of history books and memoirs, as well as psychology books (example Le Bon “The Crowd: A Study of the popular mind”).
    The latest acquisition is Chancellor “The price of time”.
    
    Reply
    1. Enuona says:
      
      Jan 09, 2024 at 22:49
      
      History is way more important than most seem to believe. Loved to read the stories of the great adventurers as a kid, went on to post ww1 and biographies relating to WW2 about both of allied and axis prominence and have done some digging in documents and soforth, stretching it far enough really.
      
      Mostly interested in recent ( 1900-Sykes-Picot-post ww2) middle east history these days, but that stuff needs distance I’m afraid. Have “studied” the Italian colonial impact upon Horn of Africa a bit and so on to understand the culture a bit better.
      
      Psychology is indeed interesting, but I leave that field to my sibling, the Professor. I’m more on to the biological reasons behind all sorts of human behaviour as I tend to believe that psychology, ethics and morale gets the blame for what biology causes . Would it be fair to argue a common denominator: Minefields?
      
      Reply
LC
Chow says:

Jan 08, 2024 at 20:30

I love your choices. Especially the Royal Oak Offshores. The Beast is a total beast! I really want the new ceramic one but I don’t think I’d spend that much (at least when I’m sober). I love the Safari as well. If you go with the older Safari (which I prefer) it is extremely versatile and looks equally incredible on the original horn back, the bracelet or the rubber. This is the best value for any AP that I’ve seen on the market these days.

Reply
Alex says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 06:59

Great you got that Breguet 7027! I have been eyeing the 7057 for a bit more than a year now.
I am thinking of potentially selling my Patek 5296R to get the Breguet. I also intend to downsize my collection because of lack of wrist time. Likely to go are a JLC Reserve de Marche blue dial, a Patek 5711J, a Vacheron 47040, an Arnold & Son Nebula and a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe titanium.

Reply
Warky says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 18:06

These comments (and very similar ones in other forums) must make for pretty scary reading for watch brands – Nerds aren’t planning on buying any watches in 2024, and if they are it’s pre owned.

That would create a bit of a headache for them even if we take at face value the previous assertion in an article on here that brands say only 10% of their watches are bought by “aficionados”.

I suspect although few will candidly admit it, a big factor in that is that the combined eye watering list price increases and faltering secondary means that with almost any new watch purchase now one is back to the previous norm of actually spending money when buying a watch.

By that I mean that you can’t quickly and easily at least get back what you paid for it…..and so watches are only bought by people who can actually afford them.

Those who can often now need to sell a piece to be able to do that – and that further feeds into the brands woes, as a better product than theirs is available for the same or less on said secondary market.

And unless it’s a no brainer like a steel Jumbo, Daytona or 321 anyone who knows what they are doing isn’t to buy new without a monster discount…..?

BTW my resolution is to keep an eye out for secondary market bargains with higher end pieces and snap them up if it’s a watch I love and will wear!

Reply
1. Chaz_H says:
  
  Jan 09, 2024 at 19:15
  
  Agree that nerds won’t buy (like they used to) unless perhaps a well priced second hand piece comes up.
  
  I’ll add that what brands ought to fear is that the punters who don’t really know watches (AKA, the “vast majority”) will basically steer towards the safe options – names that will guarantee, in their minds, that they’ve made a good purchase: Rolex, Omega, Tag and (yes!) Breitling.
  
  Reply
MM
MandoBear says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 20:00

Regarding the photo of Daniel Craig (and nothing to do with the watches)… I almost expect him to say, “The name’s Potter – Harry Potter…” Is it just me?

Reply