Fratello’s Top 5 Chronographs Of The First Half Of 2024 — Featuring Omega, Cartier, Parmigiani, And More

Another Friday, another list! We’re continuing our search for the best releases of the first half of the year. This week’s list focuses on the best chronographs we have seen in the first six months of 2024. After a quick meeting, we discovered it’s been a great year so far for fans of chronographs. We quickly assembled a list with more than double the number of entries we sought. This made it hard to choose, but in the end, we agreed on our top five picks. Let’s find out what they are!

Before we jump into the best chronographs, it’s good to point out that mechanical wizardry plays a big part in the world of chronographs. As a result, we could have easily selected five deeply impressive watches with astronomical prices. But that would also make it a rather boring list. Seeing how you enjoyed last week’s list of GMTs at different price points, we decided to do the same for this week’s list. In addition, we added an über-expensive chronograph and an exponentially more affordable one as honorable mentions. Now, without further ado, let’s get into this week’s list.

Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph

A watch that impressed us all at Fratello and was the talk of the town during Watches and Wonders was the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph. As Thomas said in his review, with the reintroduction of the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, Cartier’s second-oldest case shape returns in style. The modern remake of the 1928 classic was introduced in both platinum and yellow gold.

Both watches were limited to 200 pieces, which undoubtedly sold out quickly. It was not the first time that Cartier brought back the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph. As most of you will know, an earlier reissue was part of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris with a brilliant newly developed movement.

Cartier did that again by introducing a new caliber for the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph and a design that was a great evolution from the 1928 original. The gold and platinum versions have cases that are 43.7mm long, 34.8mm wide, and 10.2mm thick. The platinum version that Thomas reviewed pairs the case with an opaline dial with platinum Roman numerals, two beautifully detailed sub-dials, characteristic blued hands, and a cabochon in the crown. It’s a proper style statement that transports us back to Paris nearly 100 years ago.

The new tonneau-shaped Cartier caliber 1928 MC

Inside the case, though, you will find the modern 1928 MC movement. This hand-wound caliber is shaped to fill out the Tortue case nicely, and it looks fantastic. The column-wheel chronograph movement operates at 4Hz and has a power reserve of 44 hours. The finishing of the movement is beautiful with beveled bridges and curved Côtes de Genève.

This new version of the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph is an absolute joy to see from all sides and angles. It is also an absolute joy to wear. The design, proportions, and execution make for a stunning first pick that will grace the wrists of 400 new owners. To get that chance, they had to pay either €53,000 for the platinum version or €46,000 for the yellow gold model.

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with a white dial

Our next pick was a no-brainer. Sure, on paper, it’s only a new dial color, but the impact of that new dial is tremendous. As was the anticipation once the watch was seen on the wrist of former 007 Daniel Craig. He was spotted wearing a prototype of the new white-dial version of the Moonwatch during the Planet Omega event in New York last November.

As a result, the rumor mill started running at full speed. After much speculation, the answer came this March: it was a new regular-production model of the Moonwatch with a white dial. With that, the short list of white-dial Moonwatches that came before got a worthy addition that quickly attracted much attention. It shows the incredible popularity of the Moonwatch.

Just as a short reminder, this new Speedmaster combines the familiar 42mm case with a white varnished and lacquered dial. To create enough contrast with the dial, Omega opted for diamond-polished black PVD hands and hour markers. The hands are filled with Super-LumiNova, while the markers feature small Super-LumiNova plots to aid in reading the watch in the dark.

The things that surprised me most about the white dial were its richness and details. If you haven’t seen the watch in real life, I suggest you do so because it is not just any white dial; it is truly beautiful.

Caliber 3861

Inside the case, you will find the Master Chronometer-certified caliber 3861. This manual-winding chronograph movement operates at 21,600vph, has 26 jewels, and offers 50 hours of power reserve. The same movement also powers the other current Moonwatch models and offers an average accuracy of 0/+5 seconds per day.

The new Moonwatch is offered on the brilliant stainless steel bracelet that we know from the “Sapphire Sandwich” version. The super comfortable bracelet tapers nicely from 20mm to 15mm and features polished intermediate links and a clasp with an easy-extension system. The second option is a rubber-strap version, and the third is a leather-strap option. But we love the watch best on its stainless steel bracelet, which makes for a great addition to the Moonwatch lineup at €9,000.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante

One of the biggest surprises this year during Watches and Wonders was the introduction of the revamped Parmigiani Fleurier Toric collection. The brand introduced a new minimalist aesthetic for the Toric line that perfectly aligns with the popular Tonda PF. These new versions of Michel Parmigiani’s first watch from 1996 present a design that is instantly recognizable and distinct in today’s watch world. The brand also picked beautiful, saturated colors for the dials and straps that perfectly fit the two Toric models’ rose gold and platinum cases.

Parmigiani Fleurier introduced the Toric Petite Seconde and Toric Chronograph Rattrapante during Watches and Wonders, and the latter certainly deserved a spot on this list. The watch features a round 42.5 × 14.4mm rose gold case with a 50m water resistance rating. It bears the signature knurled bezel, a beautifully shaped crown, and oval pushers on the right side.

The case is combined with a dark brown gold dial that is grained and beveled by hand. It features rose gold hour markers, a rose gold logo, and slightly recessed sub-dials with rose gold frames. The hands are a mixture of materials and finishes. While the hour and minute hands are rose gold, the central chronograph hand and those in the sub-dials are made of stainless steel with a gold-plated finish. Lastly, the central rattrapante hand is plated with rhodium. It creates a super stylish handset that perfectly matches the case and contrasts the dial.

The stunning in-house caliber PF361

If you turn the watch around, you’ll see the wonderful in-house PF361 caliber. It is a joy to behold with its meticulously finished rose gold bridges and twin column wheels. The high-beat flyback chronograph movement comprises 285 parts, operates at 36,000vph, and offers 65 hours of power reserve.

The movement is the heart of a very special watch produced in a limited run of only 30 pieces for CHF 135,000 each. What buyers get in return is a breathtaking chronograph that combines style and substance in the best way possible.

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium

Our next pick is the brilliant Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium that I reviewed earlier this year. In my article, I explained that I had to get used to this lightweight titanium version of the Zenith’s popular high-beat chronograph. Regarding looks, it was love at first sight. I love the watch’s monochromatic aesthetic.

I even think it’s the best-looking Chronomaster Sport model out there. When I first picked up the watch, though, I was surprised by its (lack of) weight and rattly titanium sounds. Thankfully, it didn’t take long before I figured out the brilliance of this 105g Chronomaster Sport Titanium.

Defining the watch’s looks are the titanium case and bracelet combined with a super tasty nickel-tone sunburst dial with anthracite, light gray, and silver sub-dials. The Grade 5 titanium reveals a hint of warm yellow in daylight that looks quite nice. Additionally, the sunburst dial, with its faceted, rhodium-plated, and lacquer-filled indexes and hands, is a lot more detailed than it initially looks.

The contrast of the predominantly brushed finish with the polished chamfers of the lugs and the bezel also adds to the visual drama. These little details make this monochromatic watch pretty spectacular on the wrist.

The Zenith El Primero 3600 caliber

Inside the 41 × 46.8 × 13.6mm titanium case, Zenith equips the watch with its El Primero 3600 caliber. This automatic chronograph movement also powers the other models in the range. It operates at 36,000vph, offers 60 hours of power reserve, and can precisely measure elapsed time to 1/10th of a second. It completes a watch that is the full package for me. As I explained in my review, this titanium version of the Chronomaster Sport has abundant charm.

Although I initially questioned the bracelet’s weight, material, and build quality, I ended up completely falling for the watch. The details, design, charm, and incredible comfort make this a watch that beats any rational arguments you make against it. This is not just one of the best chronographs of the year so far; indeed, the €12,300 Chronomaster Sport in titanium will also be high on my list of this year’s best watches overall.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon

The last of our main picks is another heavy hitter. When we started talking about the most impressive watches unveiled at Watches and Wonders, Lex immediately mentioned the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon. This masterpiece brings back the technical brilliance of the patented Duometre concept. As Lex explained, “The creation of a movement with two separate barrels and two independent gear trains — one to drive the escapement (for timekeeping) and one to power the complications — stands in a tradition of horological evolution.” 

For the brilliant Duometre Chronograph Moon, Jaeger-LeCoultre developed the new caliber 391. This extraordinary movement combines a a fully integrated monopusher chronograph with moonphase and day/night complications.

The caliber also features two power reserve indicators and a seconde foudroyante display. With the chronograph activated, this flying hand ticks six times and rotates in exactly one second. As a result, when you stop the chronograph, the interval you have measured is accurate to 1/6th of a second. The stunning new movement is housed in a platinum or pink gold 42.5 × 14.2mm case.

The platinum version features a copper-colored opaline dial, while the gold version has a silver opaline dial. Both feature a combined 12-hour/60-minute sub-dial at 2 o’clock that also holds the moonphase indicator. The sub-dial at 10 o’clock displays the main time and has a day/night indicator.

In platinum or pink gold

Two open-worked sections add to the drama and showcase the stunning movement. But if you turn the watch around, you can admire the manual-winding caliber in all its glory. The brilliant architecture and the stunning finish make it a joy to behold through the sapphire window of the display case back. This back is one of the 43 parts of the completely newly developed case.

The case design takes inspiration from savonette pocket watches that JLC created in the 19th century. The updated version of this design makes the perfect housing for the stunning new caliber. The only thing you have to do is pick your favorite out of the two. The pink gold version is available at €79,000, while the platinum version is more expensive at €97,000.

Honorable mentions

As mentioned, there have been many great chronographs released in 2024, so we added some honorable mentions. Let’s start with the stunning A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen.” The watch was created to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the brand’s Datograph along with a new Up/Down version. While the latter is stunning, the former is a veritable jaw-dropper.

We have seen the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon before, but the mechanical wizardry in combination with the Honeygold case and the Lumen execution takes things to the next level. The technical brilliance, ingenious overall design, and meticulous finishing make for a wonderful first honorable mention, albeit an expensive one at €620,000.

Another honorable mention is the much more affordable Raymond Weil Millesime Tri-Compax Chronograph, which shows why Raymond Weil is quickly becoming one of the most interesting brands in the sub-€5K segment. This beautiful and very wearable chronograph measures 39.5mm in diameter, 46mm from lug to lug, and 12.9mm thick.

The stainless steel case is combined with a stylish black dial and a black strap. Inside the case, you will find the self-winding Sellita-based caliber RW5030, the perfect movement to accompany the stylish looks of the most affordable option on this list.

It’s also our last pick for this article. But I want to turn the question over to you. What are your favorite chronograph watches of the first half of 2024? Let us know in the comments section, and we will see you next week for another list.