Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 3 — Featuring Omega, IWC, Heuer, And More
Another Friday, another Top 5! It’s time for the third installment of our mini-series focusing on pre-owned sleeper watches. In it, we want to highlight some less obvious watches from different brands. Some of these are watches you may never have heard of, while others might be good reminders of forgotten greats. In this week’s article, we will look at some great classics from the past. We have selected five different models that are not on the radar of most watch fans when we talk about their respective brands. Let’s find out more.
As a quick reminder, this series was inspired by our endless efforts to find the best pre-owned watches to spend our fictitious money on. We have made it a sport in the Fratello offices to surprise each other with some of the watch world’s less obvious and maybe even forgotten gems. It means that we are looking for the best watches from any brand. They are not the first models you think of when discussing these brands, though. This means that popular brands are not off-limits, but popular models are. In this third part, we have found five more great picks that we love and think deserve your attention. So, without further ado, let’s jump in!
Image: steviemac1080
Omega De Ville Chronograph ref. 145.018
Let’s kick this list off with a personal pre-owned favorite. I have written about the Omega De Ville Chronograph ref. 145.018 in the past. I wrote a lengthy article about the watch in our series about classics that we would like to see return. So why write about it again? Well, if you are passionate about a watch, you will know that you track the asking prices to see how they are doing. To my surprise, prices haven’t increased, and some are on offer at lower prices than two years ago when I wrote the article. That is surprising as it is one of the most stylish timepieces that Omega ever created.
Image: steviemac1080
So, what is the De Ville Chronograph ref. 145.018 all about? It debuted in 1968 alongside the De Ville 145.017. The reason for creating the De Ville Chronograph series was the introduction of Omega’s legendary calibers 860 and 861. The ref. 145.018 that we picked is powered by the same three-register, cam-actuated caliber 861 as the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch of that era, as most of you will know. I love that this legendary caliber powers a completely different chronograph than the Moonwatch.
Image: steviemac1080
Find it on the stainless steel bracelet
This De Ville Chronograph is a stylish chronograph with a 35mm case measuring 13.5mm thick, 40mm from tip to tip, and 19mm between the lugs. All in all, these are modest dimensions. But it’s a watch that wears bigger, as Mike explained in his review of it. Especially on the brilliant stainless steel bracelet, it’s an absolute joy to see and wear. The difficulty is finding the bracelet in decent condition. These watches are over five decades old, so you will often find them on replacement leather straps. But don’t let that stop you from tracking one down. Omega produced these beauties only from 1968 to 1970, so they’re fairly rare. Despite that, you can find a variety of dial colors.
Image: steviemac1080
Asking prices for this pre-owned beauty start at roughly €3.5K and move up to €5.5K for one in great condition. Compared to the Moonwatches from that era, this De Ville Chronograph is a great deal. What you get in return is one of the most beautiful and elegant Omega timepieces ever produced. The combination of the design and movement makes this one of my all-time favorites. Therefore, it’s a watch that can never get enough attention if you ask me.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date ref. 19018
In the category of Rolex watches that are probably not first on your radar, we have the Oysterquartz Day-Date. And you will be surprised at the prices at which you can find these full-gold stunners. Robert-Jan wrote an in-depth article in early 2022 about the Rolex Oysterquartz and asked whether you would spend less than €15K for a gold Rolex, the only catch being its quartz movement.
Image: Bulang & Sons
As you probably know, though, that should not be a catch for anyone. Two weeks ago, I explained that the Rolex caliber 5035 is exceptional and even qualified as a COSC-certified chronometer. This is according to requirements that are much stricter than those for mechanical movements.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The Oysterquartz Datejust and Day-Date were in production from 1977 until 2003. The brand produced approximately 25,000 pieces of the different models during that production period. A rarer one is the Oysterquartz Day-Date ref. 19019 in white gold. Consequently, prices for those are substantially higher than those of its yellow gold sibling. But who wouldn’t want a Day-Date, quartz or not, in yellow gold?
Image: Bulang & Sons
The watch looks majestic with its 36mm case that is 13.5mm thick and 42mm from lug to lug. But thanks to its integrated bracelet, the watch has abundant wrist presence. Combine it with a black dial for great contrast, or get the champagne dial for the classic look. You can easily find one pre-owned between €11K and €15K. That is a full-gold steal if you ask us.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Heuer Camaro ref. 9220
Our next pick is the classic Heuer Camaro. But it’s not just any Camaro. Most collectors will probably go after the Camaro ref. 7220 in all its different variations because it is powered by the legendary Valjoux 72 movement with three sub-dials. But one that’s at least as interesting is the Camaro ref. 9220. It is powered by the Valjoux 92 and has two sub-dials.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The Camaro ref. 9220 came out shortly after the 7220’s introduction in 1968. These models were sold simultaneously in the first production run until 1972. Because of this relatively short production run, you will quickly discover that they are fairly rare birds.
Image: Bulang & Sons
But there is more to the story than just the two sub-dials versus three. If you look closely, the sub-dial on the right is not a typical 30-minute counter but a 45-minute counter. You can choose a black or silver dial with or without a tachymeter scale. The hand-wound Valjoux 92 was paired with a 37mm cushion-shaped case measuring 12.5mm thick. Therefore, it is a nicely sized chronograph with a lot of character.
Image: Bulang & Sons
And the great thing is that you can get this watch at a lower price than the Camaro ref. 7220. The asking prices for a Camaro ref. 9220 start just under €4K and move up to roughly €5.5K depending on the condition of the watch. That will buy you a proper classic racing chronograph from the golden days of Heuer.
Grand Seiko 6146-8000 regular-dial version — Image: Special Dial
Grand Seiko 6146-8000
Our fourth pick is a true pre-owned sleeper. If you want to enjoy something from the glory days of Grand Seiko and King Seiko, the Grand Seiko 6146-8000 is a great watch. The watch is part of the 61GS series from 1967 to 1975. It was available in two different versions. The first was a regular version with normal indices.
Grand Seiko 6146-8000 regular-dial version – Image: Special Dial
Grand Seiko also made versions of this dial with different wording. The second big variation, however, features a crosshair dial and shorter indices. Talk about a vintage gem! The crosshair-dial version was only produced in 1969 and 1970 in stainless steel on a leather strap. As you will understand, this is a much rarer version.
Grand Seiko 6146-8000 crosshair-dial version – Image: Vintageseiko.nl
But you can’t go wrong with either one of the two. Both have a 36mm stainless steel case that holds the Grand Seiko caliber 6146A. This Hi-Beat automatic movement operated at 36,000vph and was regulated to the Grand Seiko standard of -3/+5 seconds per day. A standout feature on the dial is the day/date window at 3 o’clock.
Grand Seiko 6146-8000 crosshair-dial version – Image: vintageseiko.nl
Whether you like the regular-dial or crosshair-dial version better, both are affordable watches that will bring you the joy of Grand Seiko’s “Grammar of Design” combined with the magic of a Hi-Beat movement and its sweeping seconds hand. The regular version can be yours pre-owned between roughly €1K and €2K, while the version with the crosshair dial tends to go for roughly between €1.5K and €2.5K.
Image: The Watch Club
IWC Doppelchronograph ref. 3713
Our final pick for this week is the IWC Dopppelchronograph ref. 3713. It’s a watch that RJ, Lex, and I think is very cool. I vividly remember that Paul, Fratello’s resident watchmaker, brought one to the office a few years ago. It was a great reminder of how cool this watch is. And thanks to its rattrapante complication, it’s double the fun of a regular chronograph.
Image: The Watch Club
As Lex explained in a piece about the Doppelchronograph ref. 3713, it was the successor to the first ref. 3711 came out in 1992. The magic of this watch was the Valjoux 7750 base movement with an innovative split-second chronograph module developed by Richard Habring.
Image: The Watch Club
In 1996, the ref. 3713 followed the ref. 3711, and IWC updated several things. The newer reference came with a flat sapphire crystal and Super-LumiNova instead of tritium lume. However, some transitional models with a flat sapphire crystal did have tritium lume, so both are possible. As a result of the base movement with the module on top, the 42mm case is a substantial 16.2mm thick.
Image: The Watch Club
Despite that, it is pretty comfortable on the wrist. That’s also where you quickly learn that the dial design is a masterclass in readability, especially considering its double-chronograph functionality and day/date window at 3 o’clock. IWC produced the Doppelchronograph ref. 3713 in different materials and with different dials. But the black-dial version in stainless steel is the one to go for. Combine it with a leather strap or find one on the cool stainless steel bracelet for anywhere between €4K and €6.5K.
Image: The Watch Club
Final thoughts on this week’s top five pre-owned sleeper watches
There you have it! This is another list of five super cool pre-owned watches that deserve your attention. And thanks to the current state of the market, you will be able to find these watches for decent prices. Again, they are not the first watches that come to mind when considering their respective brands, but that’s precisely why we wanted to give them a place in the spotlight. Let us know in the comments section which of these is your favorite, and we will see you next week for the fourth installment in this series!
