Breitling Unleashes A Slew Of New Navitimers, Including An Automatic Cosmonaute
Not to let its recent Aerospace B70 Orbiter hog the spotlight, Breitling is also unveiling a plethora of new Navitimers. Curiously, only one of these Navis is a chronograph, and it’s in the form of the limited-edition self-winding 18K red gold Cosmonaute. Considering there are nine other watches (double that with strap variants) without a chronograph function, the Navitimer is broadening its potential. Among the lineup is the new Navitimer GMT. As far as I can surmise, this is the first GMT complication in a Navtimer that’s not also a mechanical chronograph. Pusher-less Navitimers have not been my cup of tea, but the GMT layout livens up the dial in a surprising way. Let’s get into it.
To kick it off, let’s look at the new Cosmonaute. This variation of the Navitimer uses the in-house B12 movement geared for one full rotation of the hour hand every 24 hours. Where this model differs from 2022’s 60th-anniversary Cosmonaute is the automatic movement. The Scott Carpenter limited edition has the manually wound caliber B02. This caliber relates more to the 1962 original and its intended use in low-gravity space capsules. While self-winding rotors will still rotate in low gravity, there is a historical connotation with wind-up watches in space. Hence, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch uses a hand-wound movement to this day. However, as with the Speedmaster, there is a demand for automatics for everyday use. Therefore, Breitling now incorporates its self-winding B12 with 70 hours of power reserve into the new Cosmonaute.
Breitling Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute Limited Edition
It’s worth reiterating the story of the Breitling Cosmonaute. In March 1962, Mercury 7 astronaut Scott Carpenter asked Breitling, a revered maker of pilot’s watches, to develop a watch capable of space flight. The requirements were a 24-hour dial display and a more pronounced bezel for operation with gloves. A few days before the triple-orbit Mercury-Atlas 7 flight, Breitling delivered the watch to Carpenter for use onboard Aurora 7. Despite the success of the primary objectives, re-entry was compromised, and Carpenter’s capsule splashed down in the Atlantic Ocean, about 400km adrift from his target. Carpenter struggled to keep himself and the capsule afloat for 55 minutes as rescue services scrambled to locate him. The watch saw irreparable damage due to saltwater ingress beneath the crystal.
With 2024 being Breitling’s 140th anniversary, the brand is celebrating stories of air, land, and sea breakthroughs. During the Mercury-Atlas 7 mission, Carpenter’s Breitling Cosmonaute became the first Swiss wristwatch in space. While the timepiece took a beating, Breitling marks this feat for the 140th anniversary with this limited-edition Cosmonaute. The 18K red gold 41mm case immediately differentiates it from its steel and platinum bezel forebear from 2022. The emerald-green dial complements the rich gold tones, offset with black sub-dials featuring concentric grooves. The standout from this piece is the B12’s gold oscillating weight visible through the sapphire window case back. This is not the first time Breitling has employed the 24-hour chronograph B12 in its watches, as seen in the discontinued Breitling Avenger Hurricane. However, Breitling has done well in retaining the relative slimness, with the new auto being only 0.6mm thicker at 13.6mm than the 13mm B02 Cosmonaute.
Expanding the modern Navitimer collection
Moving on to the Navitimer GMT, Breitling incorporates the 24-hour indication centrally within the dial. This stepped recess ensures the corresponding GMT hand doesn’t impede the central time-telling hands. Subsequently, the slide-rule functions retain clarity and separation from the 12 applied indices. Breitling has a knack for designing legible GMT layouts, as I detailed in my write-up on the Super AVI Mosquito. However, it’s difficult to predict which logo Breitling will use for its collections as there’s seemingly a lack of continuity. For example, the AOPA winged logo is only present on the Cosmonaute from today’s release. I see a case made for only the traditional chronograph Navitimers including the AOPA emblem. That leaves the Automatic 41 and GMT with the stylized “B” logo, which works well with the more simplified aesthetic.
The Navitimer GMT uses the Breitling caliber 32 with a 42-hour power reserve and automatic bidirectional winding. While this caliber is a COSC-certified chronometer, it is not an in-house-developed mechanism but, rather, is derived from an ETA ébauche. Unlike Breitling’s manufacturer B04 GMT, the Breitling 32 is a caller-style GMT, requiring the 24-hour hand to adjust to the local time. Ideally, a flyer GMT is better for travel as the GMT hand acts as the home time, with the main hands as the local time. Thomas explained the differences brilliantly in his article here, and it does come down to preference. I prefer the central hands to be the most instant indicator for the time where I am. That said, the Navitimer GMT’s layout clearly distinguishes time zones. Another benefit is the relative slimness of the case at 11.65mm thick.
Traditional colors
The new GMT collection opts for a more mainstream selection of colors. With the latest Navitimer chronograph, Breitling experiments with an array of bold colors, such as copper and pistachio green. While not too offensive, the GMT pares it back to traditional black and silver dial choices in the 41mm stainless steel case. The ice-blue option is a pleasant outlier with electric-blue accents instead of red in the black and silver models. A vibrant emerald-green dial is available only in the 41mm red gold case. This 18K traceable gold is sourced from accredited mines with the Swiss Better Gold Association. The stainless steel and 18K red gold GMT cases feature solid screwed-in backs. Also, as with several of Breitling’s new releases, the date window sits symmetrically on the dial at the 6 o’clock position.
Finally, Breitling is reintroducing the 41mm version of the automatic Navitimer to the range. We’ve seen this variation in 32mm and 36mm case diameters. But now, the latest configuration extends to the gentlemanly 41mm sizing. While not groundbreaking since this case dimension exists in the chronograph range, for those wishing for the essence of a Navitimer without pump pushers, the 41mm size is back. The stainless steel options include deep blue and green dials. However, the ice-blue dial curiously includes red accents instead of the GMT’s electric-blue details. Also joining the lineup is a two-tone version in steel and 18K red gold with a silver dial. Last is a version in full 18K red gold, which carries the Origins Swiss Better Gold label and a silver dial. As with the 36mm case, the 41 uses the chronometer-certified ETA 2824-based Breitling caliber 17. Each case also aligns with the GMT versions at 11.65mm thick.
Final specs and pricing
For the GMT and Automatic 41, there is a choice of black, brown, or blue alligator straps with folding clasps or Breitling’s seven-row bracelet with slanted links. The Automatic 41 in steel costs £4,450 on a strap and £4,700 on the bracelet. The two-tone Automatic 41 features 18K red gold links in the even-numbered rows. This two-tone bracelet option is £8,150, or you can get the watch on a golden-brown alligator strap for £6,400. The 18K red gold version is £29,500 on the bracelet and £12,400 on the strap. Moving on to the GMT, the price bracket shifts upward, with the steel models coming in at £4,850 on a strap and £5,100 on the bracelet. The red gold GMT with the green dial is £12,850 on black leather and £29,950 on the full bracelet.
The latest Cosmonaute is limited to 250 pieces, contrasting the 2022 Scott Carpenter edition’s 362 pieces. However, the previous B02-powered model was an instant sellout on launch. Available exclusively through brand-owned boutiques and Breitling’s webshop, the Navitimer B12 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute costs £17,900 on a black alligator leather strap with an 18K folding clasp. Officially, there is no bracelet option for the Cosmonaute. However, I am sure an option to add one to the order will present itself with a boutique purchase.
Check out the Breitling website here for further information on the new Navitimers.
