Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Vs. Omega Speedmaster ’57

Welcome to another edition of Sunday Morning Showdown! With the smell of fresh coffee filling the room, it’s time for a battle of chronographs — the Breitling Chronomat versus the Omega Speedmaster. More specifically, for this week’s battle, Jorg chose the Breitling Chronomat B01 42, and Thomas chose the Omega Speedmaster ’57. The first is an illustrious chronograph with roots in aviation, while the second is the modern version of the original Speedmaster from 1957. These two chronographs make for an interesting matchup on a Sunday morning. So grab a strong cup of coffee, and let’s get into it!

Thomas and Jorg face off in this week’s showdown. Both men have selected famous names from big brands to battle it out. While the Chronomat name might be rooted in aviation and the Speedmaster debuted as a racing chronograph, they are worthy opponents in this week’s battle. Jorg’s Chronomat B01 42 came into the news last week when Breitling introduced a beautiful 250-piece limited edition for the UK market. This toned-down version of the Chronomat was a great reminder of the initial Chronomat B01 42 that came out in 2020. Thomas’s Omega Speedmaster ’57 is a little younger, having debuted in its current form in 2022. The modern version of the first Speedmaster from 1957 was met with a lot of praise. Above all, both watches celebrate the characteristic style of the past in a contemporary way. It’s time for you to decide which does that best!

Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…

But before diving into this week’s battle, let’s look at the results from last week’s. Jorg’s Serica 6190 Field Chronometer took the win with 59% of the votes versus 41% of the votes going to the Studio Underd0g 02Series Field. The comments section gave a balanced view on favorites, fairly in line with the voting results. Studio Underd0g founder Richard Benc also got in on the comments, stating that both of the options were winners. From seeing the popularity of these two pieces, we can only agree with him. Both young brands seem to be doing well with their respective models, and we love seeing that. That said, it’s time to hand it over to this week’s contestants. Gentlemen, take it away!

Jorg: Breitling Chronomat B01 42

I have a bit of a rocky relationship with the Chronomat, Thomas. It’s certainly not all love from my side. When I first got into watches, the Chronomat represented a lot of what I didn’t like about luxury watches. For the longest time, the Chronomat was an oversized chunk of steel associated with shady characters who lived their lives at night and weren’t afraid to leave the imprint of the rider tabs on your face if you looked at them the wrong way. I am exaggerating, of course, but we all know the reputation of the previous generations of the Chronomat is well known among watch fans.

However, as with all watches that have been around for a long time, it’s all about context. Once I started reading about the history of the Chronomat, it was easier to see the era that I am not a fan of as just one small part of the model’s history. The Chronomat dates back to the early 1940s as Breitling’s first watch with a slide-rule bezel and the predecessor of the Navitimer. Additionally, there is the story of the Chronomat from the early 1980s, created with Ernest Schneider at the brand’s helm. As I explained in the Buying Guide article on the best Breitling watches from the 1980s, that version of the Chronomat represents the story of the brand’s renewed focus on mechanical watches.

Inspiration from the 1980s Chronomat

With the outside help of the Frecce Tricolori aerobatics team of the Italian Air Force, Breitling developed an aviation chronograph that set the tone for everything that came after. I love the Breitling Chronomat ref. 81950, which was first introduced in 1984. The watch introduced the characteristic rotating timing bezel with the rider tabs at each 15-minute interval. Additionally, the watch came with the great Rouleaux bracelet with its rifle-shell-style links. And it’s this watch that inspired Georges Kern to create the current Chronomat, one that celebrates the past and respectfully says goodbye to the previous era of the Chronomat that I just couldn’t love.

When the new Chronomat came out in 2020, I immediately became a fan, and to this day, it is my favorite model in the Breitling collection. I still love the “Kern-ification” of the current Chronomat four years later. However, I must say that I don’t feel the same about everything that came after. The long list of additions to the collection made me forget about the best model that started the current generation. Additions like the three-hand Automatic versions and the GMTs hardly stood out. The Super Chronomat stands out in size but misses the charm and refinement of its smaller brothers. Lastly, the string of limited editions might serve a purpose in targeting a specific audience, but I would not run to a Breitling boutique to pay €9K for a Six Nations-branded Chronomat.

Why the Chronomat B01 42 is the one Chronomat

No, it’s all about the Chronomat B01 42 that debuted in 2020. That is the Chronomat for me! So when I saw the new UK limited edition, I was immediately reminded of the Chronomat I want! The way that Kern and his designers reintroduced the characteristic elements from the 1980s Chronomat and combined them with a contemporary overall design creates an attractive modern chronograph. The stainless steel case measures 42mm in diameter, 15.1mm in thickness, and 50.5mm from lug to lug. In good Chronomat tradition, it’s a substantial size, but it wears like a charm. The brilliant Rouleaux bracelet adds a ton of comfort and style, and it sits perfectly on my wrist.

Thanks to the brand’s much-lauded in-house B01 caliber, fortunately, the designers never had to think about the Valjoux 7750 layout of the ’80s Chronomat. The self-winding B01 uses the traditional 3-6-9 layout and offers a fully integrated chronograph mechanism, a column wheel, a vertical clutch, and a 70-hour power reserve. Due to its sub-dial layout, the dial looks super balanced, is easy to read, and has a great sense of style. In particular, the copper-colored, panda, and reverse panda dials look great, and the new black and gray UK version would have been a great addition if it weren’t limited. All in all, though, the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 is one of the best-looking and most relevant chronographs out there.

Why the Chronomat is my pick over the Speedmaster ’57

So, why would I pick the Chronomat over the Speedmaster ’57? The answer is quite simple: the Chronomat B01 42 is the one Breitling that I would buy. Despite loving the Speedmaster ’57 a lot, it’s not the one Omega or even Speedmaster that I would buy. That’s why I would gladly pay the current €8,650 retail price for the Chronomat and save almost €2K for the right Omega. I know it might be an unpopular opinion in Fratello land, but it’s my choice. That said, I am still open to hearing your thoughts on the matter, Thomas!

Thomas: Omega Speedmaster ’57

Thank you, Jorg! I sympathize with your description of your sentiment towards the Chronomat. All of us have our bonds and associations with specific watches in that exact way. Sometimes we have it with watches that feel out of character for us. I feel this is the case for you and the Chronomat. For some reason, I cannot see it on you. But let me not go there as we aren’t watch shopping for you; we are making a case for a Sunday Morning Showdown!

I will not go too deep into the Breitling Chronomat. I tend to be a little too harsh on my opponents in these SMS articles, so let me try to stick to my contender as much as possible this time. I will say, however, that I think the Breitling Chronomat lacks some refinement. It looks and feels a bit crude to me. And, let’s be fair, you don’t typically spot it on the wrists of professors of philosophy, do you?

Okay, sorry. I went too far again. I have problems, Jorg. Still, I just cannot help but feel that the Speedmaster ’57 is by far the more refined offering. Let me keep my Chronomat criticisms to myself and explain why the Omega is the one to pick.

Simplicity is the name of the game

Usually, you and I, Jorg, get down into the nitty-gritty of design. I think we should do the same here. The Speedmaster ’57, namely, is fantastic in that sense. I have to admit, I tend to be completely uninterested in derivative models that flank a core classic. Had you given me any Speedy Racing, DSOTM, or Chronoscope to defend, I would have struggled badly. But the Speedmaster ’57, especially with a blue or green dial, is the one that can give the legendary Speedmaster Professional a run for its money if you ask me.

Here’s the deal: the Speedmaster is one of the cleanest chronographs ever designed, the latest ’57 perhaps even more so than the Professional. The straight lugs and steel bezel maximize the clarity, the arrow hand makes it even more legible, and the two-sub-dial layout with a date at 6 o’clock is as balanced as they come. And that is coming from someone who generally strongly prefers no-date watches.

I often feel that contemporary Omega releases suffer from being over-designed. Too many embellishments and elements complicate the core form. The Speedmaster ’57 is a deliciously clean break from that trend. In fact, I checked my bank balance when we had the blue one in the office. The news wasn’t good, but hey, it tells you something, doesn’t it?

It is a travel watch too!

I know you have a massive soft spot for GMT watches, Jorg. Few people realize you can use the Speedmaster ’57 in much the same way! The minute and hour counters for the chronograph are positioned in one sub-dial. This means that, if you plan it and start the chronograph at the right time, you can display an additional time zone with it.

The caliber 9906 inside is impressive for more reasons than just its hidden travel feature. This is subjective, but I like the rifled striping that Omega applies, especially on this caliber’s massive three-quarter plate. Aesthetics aside, the 9906 is antimagnetic to 15,000 gauss, and the twin-barrel construction provides 60 hours of power reserve. Most importantly, you get the METAS Master Chronometer certification with all the very stringent demands that it implies.

Cast your vote: Chronomat B01 42 or Speedmaster ’57

There you have it — two modern takes on heritage chronographs from juggernaut brands! Which would you pick? Jorg’s Breitling Chronomat B01 42 or Thomas’s Speedmaster ’57? Cast your vote, and share your motivations in the comments below!