Hands-On With The New Black-Dial Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Models
Omega recently introduced a trio of new Seamaster Aqua Terra models. Although the brand itself made little fanfare about it, we were excited to see them. Many within the Fratello team were quite fond of the Aqua Terra Shades models. I was even tempted to buy one for myself. So when a black-dial version came along, we wanted to get our hands on it. I am happy to report that I did, and here is how we got along.
The new black Omega Aqua Terra comes in three variants. The 41mm version (ref. 220.10.41.21.01.001) runs on Omega’s caliber 8900, while the 38mm (ref. 220.10.38.20.01.001) and 34mm (ref. 220.10.34.20.01.001) versions both house caliber 8800. All have a price of €7,300.
What is new about the black-dial Aqua Terra
You would be forgiven for being a little confused about this release. After all, a range of colorful dials characterizes the Aqua Terra Shades collection. Black 41mm and 38mm Aqua Terras were already available as well but not in the Shades style. These new releases aren’t officially part of the Shades collection, but they do feature all the specs and execution of those models. The non-Shades black ATs also remain available for €300 less than these.
In short, if you want a 41mm or 38mm black-dial AT, you can now choose between teak-deck or glossy dials, flat-link straight or curved tapering bracelets, and non-framed or framed date windows. They all carry the same name — Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M. Are you confused yet?
If we dumb it down, these are Shades Aqua Terras without the Shades dials. They do bring one more novelty to the table in the form of a micro-adjustable bracelet. This is a long-awaited and oft-requested feature, and, boy, do I have an opinion about it! More on that later.
New black Seamaster Aqua Terra specs
Specs-wise, the only real news is the comfort setting in the clasp. The rest of the specs will sound familiar to those who know the Aqua Terra well. All three have stainless steel cases and bracelets. The biggest version pairs its 41mm diameter with a 48mm lug-to-lug and a 13.4mm thickness. The 38mm version offers a 45.1mm length and a 12.3mm profile. Lastly, the small model has a 34mm diameter, 40.5mm lug-to-lug, and 12mm thickness. As the full model name implies, all have a 150m depth rating. There are sapphire crystals on the top and bottom of all three cases, and the crowns are of the screw-down variety.
As mentioned, the 41mm version runs on Omega’s caliber 8900, while the other two feature caliber 8800. One difference is the power reserve — 60 hours for the 8900 versus 55 hours for the 8800. Perhaps more importantly, caliber 8900 features a quick-set hour hand, while caliber 8800 features a quick-set date. Your preference will depend on which you set more often. Aqua Terra owners switching time zones regularly will probably enjoy caliber 8900. Both calibers feature a date function, which Omega has chosen to display at 6 o’clock on the dial.
All three come on the Shades-style bracelet. Or perhaps I should say “the 1171-style bracelet with a polished center link.” I have seen detractors label it as a Rolex President homage. This is unjustified because these links are much flatter, and the overall appearance and wearing experience are quite different. The bracelet is 20mm wide on the 41mm model, 19mm on the 38, and 16mm on the 34. In contrast to the regular Aqua Terra, the bracelets taper on these models.
The new black dials
In contrast to the sunburst Shades versions or the regular teak-deck models, these new additions feature gloss dials. I can keep it simple: they are extremely well executed. The dials exude quality, partly due to the black itself. It is not quite Vantablack, but it is blacker than your average black dial. This may sound odd, but if you have ever seen a really good black lacquer dial, you know what I’m talking about. Its pureness is notable.
The surface is glossy and perfectly smooth. This neatly matches the overall theme of these watches. However, if you want your Aqua Terra to lean more towards the tool-watch side of the spectrum, get the teak-deck version. These are more elegant. I would even say more flashy. This is the Aqua Terra dressed in a nice tuxedo.
The combination works so well that it makes these new additions feel like they aren’t new at all. This is such an obvious way to execute an AT that it feels instantly classic. Sometimes, the low-hanging fruit tastes the sweetest.
The 38mm version on Nacho’s 17cm (6.7″) wrist
Wearing the black Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra
I have been a huge fan of the 38mm Aqua Terra for some time. I was already tempted by the non-Shades version with the white dial. However, I felt it looked a bit too technical or, to be crude, a tad nerdy. The later Shades version fixed that problem. Its slightly more glamorous appearance pushed it from good to great for me. However, I like the new black model even more.
The 34mm version
The 41mm version is equally good, although it is too big for my taste. I feel the design sings more in a slightly smaller case, but I wouldn’t discourage anyone from going for the 41 if it fits better. I find the 34mm variant a bit disappointing. Softening the sharp angles to make it more feminine is a bit cliché. This sporty watch would have worked just fine as a pure unisex model. There was no need to make it “girly,” although I am sure it speaks to a specific clientele.
This leaves me with one big point of criticism — the comfort setting in the clasp. Omega now offers a roughly 2mm adjustment in the two-sided butterfly clasp. The problem isn’t just that this is too small of an adjustment range, but when it’s extended, it also leaves an unsightly gap. I would say it is passable only as a sort of relief setting for extreme heat or overly salty meals. It certainly doesn’t work as a way to ensure a perfect fit throughout the day. I would say it is about time Omega ditched the butterfly clasp for a good single-deployant version with proper micro-adjustment. This feels like a way to tick a must-have specs box without truly meeting the practical user demands.
The 41mm version
Closing thoughts
All things considered, I think these are fantastic additions to the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra range. If you like the refinements and elegance-centric approach of the Shades collection but don’t want a colorful dial, these are for you. The new black dials are beautifully executed and suit these watches to a tee.
On the wrist, these feel like high-end GADA (go anywhere, do anything) watches. From the finishing to the stark black dials and the supple feel of the bracelet, the package is compelling. And it has to be because these watches carry a hefty price tag. I would not be surprised if these become some of the biggest sellers in the Aqua Terra collection.
What do you think of these new black-dial Aqua Terra models? Let us know in the comments section below!
