Introducing: Two New Versions Of The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe In Grail-worthy Gold
The Fifty Fathoms family from Blancpain has already crossed the line from tool watch into wrist grails for most of us. This was already a fact with rising prices years ago and symbolizes for many the change in how we perceive wristwear. By nature they are all instruments to tell the time, and any reference in the Fifty Fathoms family does this exceedingly well. However, the two recently released models in the Bathyscaphe line go well beyond performing this basic function. They do so, in style, from inside a sturdy golden shell.
After all, both the domed sapphire bezel of the Fifty Fathoms and the crisp dial of a Bathyscaphe were made for ideal dive legibility, even if most remain dry. With a €50,000+ tool watch, you’d be pretty hardcore to dive with it, but if you have the budget, why not? The truth is that these two new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe versions might tempt you, and I, for one, will applaud you.
A new 18K Bathyscaphe duo for a select clientele
Who is the actual buyer of this glimmering duo? These two models are not new in solid 18K red gold, but the immaculate bracelet completes them. The most obvious buyer would be one of the most fervent collectors of the brand, wanting a halo piece for his box. The world is changing, and many of us still consider a slim 35-38mm three-hander to be a requisite accessory for a suit. The Dress Watch is still alive and well. But, in our world of athleisure and the joy of wearing chunky Nike AF1s with a suit (something I’m guilty of), is dressing up a sports watch (perhaps one in precious metal) such a crime?
I’m slightly torn on the subject. Depending on the occasion, I’ll happily wear a slimmer watch with a suit jacket, but I’m no stranger to jazzing it up. Sure, a 42-43mm watch will sometimes look out of place, but if you have the budget, a gold case will always give you an edge. And as much as the Bathyscaphe’s soul may lie in the ocean’s blue depths, the prices of Fifty Fathoms models today—or any Blancpain sports watch, for that matter—make them expensive enough to be used for special occasions only. And for me, that matters more than the perceived aesthetic balance of dress shirt cuffs in conflict with a large, sporty timepiece.
The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune
The ref 5054-3640-76S is, as you can easily see, based on the most complex version of the Fifty Fathoms family. We have covered it before, like in Lex’s story back in 2022, where he looked at the red gold version vs. the titanium model. Putting it simply, it offers a delightful juxtaposition of genres. The Quantième Complet Phases de Lune gives us a complete calendar complication, fascinating in itself. But this is usually found in dress pieces like the brand’s Villeret Quantième 6654. Here, it is defiantly fitted into a tool watch. This makes it a stand-out to me, and as I said, for many, this outer tool watch appearance does not make it a tool watch per se.
The full-gold bracelet strengthens the all-engulfing impression, making both models stand up to alternatives like a full-gold Omega Speedmaster. It will also battle the all-gold Daytona and newcomer Zenith Chronomaster Sport. Sure, these are not all in the €50,000+ realm, but neither do they share the edge-to-edge dial delights of the Bathyscaphe Quantième. I am a big fan of its juxtaposed charm and the deep blue sunray dial from its white-lumed button hour markers down to the crisp inner date circle. Red details add subtle charm, and a clean white font for the day and month windows at 12. Some might be completely overwhelmed by the combo of a big gold presence and a busy dial. I get it, but the subtle gradient and the Mona Lisa smile of the moon phase won me over.
The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback
Both watches are a none-too-discreet 43mm. Knowing the weight of red gold, the 14.9mm thick ref 5200-3640-76S chronograph will be a weighty proposition. Even the 13.4mm of the complete calendar version is big. Both of them are ready to baffle you with their 300m depth rating. No, I wouldn’t make this my go-to for actual diving, but that’s well beside the point. It’s about those sharp syringe hands and the intrinsic detail of what is, in fact, a solid tool watch. It just happens to be in a lustrous shade of red gold, not steel or titanium. And if you have the budget, each is a superb daily driver. And while this might seem absurd to some of you, with a few scratches, they may even look better.
The F385 is an accomplished flyback movement with a 50-hour power reserve, 322 components, and a high-frequency 5hz beat. And common for both watches is the new solid gold bracelet. The quality looks flawless; producing this involves demanding assembly and finishing processes. The classic design of the hand-finished satin-brushed links is joined together utilizing transverse pins. This provides flexibility that ensures wrist comfort and is based on a patented system. The screws are then placed on the back of the links to preserve the smooth look and feel of the bracelet edges.
A glimmering conclusion
These two watches are marvelously divisive, which is sometimes the best kind of wristwear for me. They are unnecessary and slightly frivolous, but they signal the strength of the Fifty Fathoms legend. They are glamorous celebrations of the dive watch OG but with a hefty presence. I can’t afford it but trust me; collectors will see this as Peak Fathoms. And good for them. For more information on these two new versions of the Bathyscaphe, please visit the Blancpain website. These watches are available now, with an identical retail price of €60,500.
Are you ready for the full-gold experience of these alleged tool-watches, Fratelli? Though the term may not fully apply in this case, should that even matter? Let me know in the comments section below.
