Hands-On With The New Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT
Since Vulcain decided to focus more on models outside of its bread-and-butter alarm watches, we have seen an array of new models coming to the market. Primarily based on vintage timepieces, the new Vulcain models include chronographs, time-only watches, and divers. The last of those is an exciting line consisting of the Nautical Heritage alarm diver and the Skindiver Nautique, a simple three-hander in various case and dial iterations. Today, we are going to take a look at the Skindiver Nautique GMT, the very first multi-time-zone piece in Vulcain’s collection.
The new Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT is a collaboration between the brand, Italian watch YouTuber TOC, and Gioielleria Rosaspina, an Italian watch retailer and Vulcain dealer.
Gioielleria Rosaspina
I rarely get a hand-signed letter accompanying the watch I’m reviewing. As the new Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT is a collaborative model, it arrived to me directly from Gioielleria Rosaspina’s store in Bergamo, Italy. The letter inside the package was from Mr. Stefano Manzoni, who is the fourth-generation co-owner of the store alongside his sister Paola. Their great-grandfather opened the first store in 1939 at the very location where the modern shop is located. To commemorate the 85th anniversary of their business, they teamed up with TOC and Vulcain to create a timepiece that would stand as a testament to the success of Gioielleria Rosaspina. The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT Limited Edition TOC is the result. Sold by Rosaspina in a series of only 85 pieces, the watch is quite limited and costs €2,240 (including tax). Now, let’s have a closer look at the Skindiver Nautique GMT and the line it stems from.
Vulcain’s Skindiver Nautique
The Skindiver Nautique has been in the Vulcain collection for quite some time now. We published my first article introducing the new model line in January 2023. Since the initial release, the Skindiver line has expanded to eight models, with four in steel and four in bronze cases. Aside from the case material, Vulcain offers the Skindivers with several dial colors, including blue, brown, black, and so on. However, the brand had never created a multi-time-zone watch before this Skindiver Nautique GMT limited edition. Not only that, but this new model also comes with a steel bracelet. The very first Skindiver Nautiques all came with straps. Eventually, the bracelet became part of the options. So this new model is a milestone not only in the history of Gioielleria Rosaspina but also for Vulcain. Due to its size and the comfortable bracelet, it is an enjoyable wristwatch.
Basics
In true vintage fashion, and just like the other Skindivers, the Nautique GMT is only 38mm wide and 12.2mm thick. Despite its automatic movement, the thickness is excellent. The entirety of the metal exterior, including the case back and the bracelet, is vertically brushed 316L stainless steel. But as any GMT watch needs to have a bezel, this time, it is a bidirectional one with a black ceramic insert and golden numerals. Finally, the dial is matte black with a grainy pattern, gold accents, and hands filled with lume, just like the indexes. At 3 o’clock, you can find the date aperture.
To summarize, you have a well-sized automatic timepiece on a steel bracelet with a double-domed sapphire crystal. It has time, date, and GMT functions and a ceramic bezel. That’s not too shabby of a spec sheet, is it?
How does it wear?
Upon receiving the watch, I had to remove one link, but that was no issue. Each link has one long screw, and with the perfect screwdriver, removing one only takes a minute or so. Thanks to the micro-adjustable clasp, you can perfectly size the Skindiver Nautique GMT to your wrist. The micro-adjustability also comes in handy in the summertime, a great little detail that many other brands still lack on their bracelets. As the bracelet is steel, the watch feels balanced, comfortable, and not too heavy on the wrist. In addition, setting the main time or the independent GMT hand is easy with the large crown. I think 38mm is slowly becoming the new sweet spot for watch sizes, so the Skindiver Nautique GMT is right on the money. Your mileage may vary, but I love the overall steel look with black and gold details.
Inside the watch
Although it lacks a 60-minute unidirectional bezel, the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT is a true diver at heart, meaning you can take it down to 200 meters deep. It is also a GMT with the Soprod C125 beating inside the case. Essentially, this is a Soprod A10-2 with a GMT module. The C125 caliber has 25 jewels, around 42 hours of power reserve, and a 28,800vph (4Hz) frequency. According to some, this is not a “true” GMT because you cannot set the 12-hour hand independently. Just remember, though, that the original and genre-defining Rolex GMT-Master didn’t offer that function either, so that doesn’t make it “true”, just different. With this caller-style movement, you can still set the 24-hour hand independently. Does it take away from the usability or functionality of the watch? Absolutely not.
What’s left to say?
As I mentioned above, if you fancy the new Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT, you need to visit Gioielleria Rosaspina’s website and order it from there. I enjoyed my time with this watch, and this comes from a guy who also reviewed the very first Vulcain Skindiver Nautique. The added GMT function makes the watch better and more usable. Legibility is not an issue as the hands are large and luminous, and the red-tipped GMT hand is easy to distinguish. While the grainy texture of the dial is not necessarily my thing, I do not mind it. It also works well with the overall look and feel of the Skindiver Nautique. With this new GMT version, we have a very well-executed water-going watch with a proper added function for a fair price.
Let us know what you think of this watch in the comments below!
