Exploring Evergreens: The Current Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN
The current generation of Rolex Submariner Date has been out for four years. That might seem like a short time, but a lot has changed. The watch world — heck, even the actual world — looks different than it did in 2020. The Rolex Submariner is no longer unobtainium. Much of the hype that set the watch world on fire has died down. What remains is the latest version of one of the most iconic watches of all time. And I got a chance to try it out. Here’s how we got along.
A lot was said about the latest Rolex Submariner Date ref. 126610LN when it came out. Its new 41mm size was controversial, to put it mildly. So were several other changes and even the lack of change overall. Now that the dust has settled, let’s see whether the current Submariner Date is any good.
A quick recap of what changed on the 126610LN
Let’s kick things off with a quick recap of the changes made to the 126610LN, just so we are on the same page. The most eye-catching change — at least on the specs sheet — was the upsizing from 40mm to 41mm across. This went against the grain because the smaller-watch trend was already well and truly underway in 2020. The thing is, a single millimeter of change is completely negligible when you are reproportioning a watch design. Even more importantly, the Sub didn’t actually grow by a full millimeter at all. It was merely a rounding difference as the case went up from 40.2mm to 40.5mm.
The case was, however, quite thoroughly reproportioned. The lugs were slimmed down and offset by a widening of the bracelet from 20mm to 21mm. Similarly, the crown guards were dialed back a notch. Overall, these changes fixed some of the problems people had with the previous 116610LN, which had bulked up significantly compared to its predecessor.
Under the hood, the 126610LN features the eight-year-old caliber 3235, which never powered the previous-generation Submariner Date despite an overlap in production. The most notable changes are its 70-hour power reserve (up from the previous 3135 caliber’s 48 hours) and an updated escapement. On the dial, the only way to recognize the latest Sub is by the little crown between the “Swiss” and “Made” text below 6 o’clock. To summarize, this is evolution over revolution.
Seeing the 126610LN in context
You might argue that such minor updates make sense. After all, updating a product as iconic as the Submariner is best done with velvet gloves. Ask Porsche, Fender, Levi’s, or Apple. Rolex has applied incremental updates throughout the 70-year history of the Sub. The previous 116610LN, with its combination of steroid treatment and a shiny ceramic bezel, was arguably one of the more radical updates.
The fact that the jump to the 126610LN was so small is completely understandable and not only because its predecessor had already introduced some bigger updates. You also have to see it in the context of 2020. The years leading up to the COVID-fueled hype had already seen Rolex watches become unobtainable. When I bought a new Oyster Perpetual in 2018, the sports models were already on long waiting lists. I even had to wait two months for my OP, and that was before the colored OPs triggered a bit of hype. By 2020, “normal” buyers without a serious purchasing history had no chance in hell of scoring a new Sub.
Now, Rolex doesn’t seem to care that this aggravates parts of its (potential) clientele. Therefore, I’m not saying this update was modest to prevent outrage, but it does fit the times. Why apply major changes to something that is already too hot to meet demand in its current form? Rolex simply added the minimally required updates so as not to fall behind. This is already quite proactive within the Rolex context. Do you remember how long we had stamped Rolex clasps while all others were offering solid new milled alternatives? Rolex can afford to bide its time before making a move.
The 126610LN’s build quality is second to none at the price
So, what is the 126610LN like in the metal? To me, it is one of the greatest sports watches you can buy now. It is as simple as that. From a design perspective, it is the mother of all dive watches. When viewed next to this, most others look like the design brief was “Try not to think of a Sub.” I don’t often resort to such hyperbole, but I think it is warranted here.
The modern Submariner is best characterized as solid and refined. Detractors critique Rolex’s build quality as overrated, but I am sorry to say that this just shows a lack of understanding of fine machining, construction, and finishing. Operating a modern Sub, from the crown to the bezel and, particularly, the bracelet, is unlike any other watch in this price range. It feels as if the Oyster links articulate on ceramic bearings; it is so silky smooth and tight. In fact, the entire watch feels like a solid chunk of steel that will survive long after its owner has perished.
Now, at €10,700, this is a very expensive watch. However, with competitors raising their prices, it is becoming the better buy, especially since (the now much shorter) waiting lists are keeping preowned prices slightly above retail. I am not exaggerating when I say that I don’t know any watches under €20K that are as built as well as this. And I know many well over €20K that cannot touch the Sub’s build. The one detracting factor is that some 32xx-generation calibers have been reported to run at subpar amplitude, resulting in accuracy issues. This took on a life of its own on the internet, making it seem as if the entire movement generation is garbage, which it isn’t. It isn’t unlike the internet to overreact, right? Still, it is a point worthy of mentioning here.
Is there such a thing as “too good”?
Don’t worry; this review isn’t going to be one big, soggy love song. The modern Submariner has one big problem: it is too good. Over seven decades, Rolex has slowly but surely ironed out every crease and created a near-perfect dive watch. In the process, it has become a bit bland. The 126610LN feels sterile on my wrist. It also feels like a bit too much of everything. It is so sharp, solid, and shiny that it almost looks awkward on my imperfect human wrist. I am scared to scratch it, which I don’t usually feel with any watch.
I am not entirely sure what it is. Perhaps it is the super shiny bezel that pushes it over the edge for me. I would love to see Rolex offer a matte ceramic alternative. It would help bring the watch back slightly from a luxury status symbol to a tool watch, at least aesthetically.
It has become a thing among watch enthusiasts to lament the downfall of Rolex sports watches since the five-digit references. It’s as if that cements you as a true aficionado rather than an uninitiated Rolex buyer looking for bling. While I dislike the snobbery that comes with it, I do share the preference for the five-digit era. The 14060 is one of my grail watches, and I am wearing an Explorer II 16570 as I write this. It feels rattly and cheap compared to the 126610LN, but it also feels more soulful and honest. I hate to be this guy, stalling progress for the sake of some entitled purism, but I would still buy a 14060 or 16610 over a 124060 (no-date) or 126610 (date).
Closing thoughts
In the end, I am of two minds regarding the Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN. On one hand, I deeply admire it for its quality and design. On the other hand, it leaves me a little cold. Then again, I am aware this may simply be the result of being a little too deep into the watch world. Every field has its idiosyncrasies among its enthusiast crowd, and this surely affects me. I am sure some watch reviewers in 2050 will lament how the Submariner update of 2049 lacks the charm of the 2020 126610LN. We are just impossible to please, aren’t we?
Taking off my romantic-purist glasses and looking at it objectively, I can only praise the Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN. It is a very easy recommendation for people looking to buy a high-end sports watch that will outlast them. Does it render the 116610LN obsolete? No. The predecessor’s more squarish case might suit your taste, and a 70-hour power reserve has little benefit if you wear your watch every day.
The reality is that Submariners have been well-made and long-lasting watches for a while now. Thus, the 126610LN simply adds another option to the offerings. If it is too clean for you, you can always go for a preowned four-, five-, or six-digit reference. Life is good when you have options!
What do you think of the current-gen Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN? Let us know in the comments section below!
